Tudástár
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil has been reported as beneficial for the treatment of burns, wounds, acne, insect bites, wound healing, and painful bruises. Other references recommend the oil for the treatment of fatigue, tired feet, rheumatism, sores, varicose veins and ulcers. The essential oil has been used for the improvement of sleep, by placing a few drops of the oil onto the pillow. The oil has also been used to calm a tense headache and may, in some cases, be useful in cases of migraine.
Lavender oil applied to human and animal skin produced little or no irritation, but it has caused sensitization, photosensitization and pigmentation in humans. In laboratory animals it was of low acute oral and dermal toxicity and low to moderate injection toxicity. Its principal effect following administration by oral, injection or inhalation routes to rodents, was sedation. It was rapidly absorbed through intact human skin.
CAS: 8000-28-0
Function: Fragrance ingredient/tonic/ refreshing/ cleansing/ deodorant/ masking.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Ginseng is an excellent tonic, though it cannot be claimed to cure any specific ailment. Ginseng is used as a general tonic to treat tiredness, overexertion, neurasthenia, hypotension, general and nervous weakness, particularly in old age; mild depression.
Panax is derived from the Greek word panakos, “a panacea,” in reference to the miraculous virtues ascribed to it by the Chinese who consider it a Sovereign remedy in almost all diseases. It was formerly supposed to be confined to Chinese Tartary, but now is known to also be a native of North America, from when Sarrasin transmitted specimens to Paris in 1704.
CAS: 84650-12-4
Function: Emollient/ hair conditioning/ skin protecting/ tonic.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Curcumin is extracted from the dried root of the turmeric rhizome Curcuma longa. The process of extraction requires the raw material to be ground into powder, and washed with a suitable solvent that selectively extracts coloring matter. This process after distillation of the solvent yields an oleoresin with coloring matter content in the region of 25–35% along with volatile oils and other resinous extractives. The oleoresin so obtained is subjected to further washes using selective solvents that can extract the curcumin pigment from the oleoresin. This process yields a powdered, purified food color, known as curcumin powder, with more than 90% coloring matter content and very little volatile oil and other dry matter of natural origin. The characteristic yellow color of turmeric is due to the curcuminoids, first isolated by Vogel in 1842.
Curcumin provides a water-soluble orange-yellow color. The rhizome of Curcuma longa has been used as a medicine, spice and coloring agent for thousands of years. The Negritoes of the Philippines utilize the fresh rhizome to treat recent wounds, bumps, bruises and leech bites. Mixed with gingelly oil (a locally produced oil), it is applied to the body to prevent further skin eruptions. Among the dark races of India, turmeric has been used since time immemorial to treat skin problems. Both the Ayurvedic and the Unani practitioners have used a paste of powdered turmeric or its fresh juice made into a paste or a decoction of the whole plant as a local application in the treatment of leprosy and cobra bites. It is especially useful for indolent ulcers on the surface of the skin and gangrene in the flesh. A paste made from the powdered rhizomes along with caustic lime forms a soothing remedy for inflamed joints. Turmeric is also used as an external application of “rouge” and is used by some women in India to suppress the unwelcome growth of facial hairs and upper lip moustaches. In Northern India, the rhizome is used by many natives for treating cuts, burns and scalds. The natives of Samoa use powdered rhizome to sprinkle on newborn infants to help heal a recently cut umbilical cord, to prevent nappy rash from occurring, and to keep the skin continually soft and resilient. The powder is also used as a paste or poultice to treat skin ulcers and to help heal extensive skin eruptions. In parts of Africa, turmeric has been successfully tested for healing rashes due to allergies and psoriasis inflammation, and itching accompanying arthritis.
It is a natural extract obtained by solvent extraction from the dried rhizomes of turmeric (used in Indian cuisine as a flavoring agent). Curcumin may be used to compensate for fading of natural coloring in pre-packed foods. Recognized as an anticarcinogenic agent during laboratory tests. It is widely used in traditional Indian medicine to cure biliary disorders, anorexia, cough, diabetic wounds, hepatic disorders, rheumatism and sinusitis. Turmeric paste in slaked lime is a popular home remedy for the treatment of inflammation and wounds. Curcumin has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antifungal actions. Studies have shown that curcumin is not toxic to humans. Curcumin exerts anti-inflammatory activity by inhibition of a number of different molecules that play an important role in inflammation.
CAS: 458-37-7
Function: Antioxidant.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
There could be no finer moisturiser than honey and throughout history one can find numerous references to the skin benefits that honey can bring. The soothing, emollient and skin healing benefits of honey are being examined clinically in a number of leading hospitals throughout the world for wound healing and the treatment of burns.
Honey is good for skin care because it attracts and maintains moisture and acts like a moisturizer. Honey was used to treat boils, wounds, ulcers and burns. Locally it makes an ointment for sores, wounds and ulcers. It reduces irritation and is good to apply to chapped hands. It will afford relief for frostbite and will help to reduce swellings. Sword cuts were treated and dressed with honey and cobwebs. Its use dates back to ancient times, with Egyptian medical texts (circa 2600 and 2200 B.C.) mentioning honey in at least 900 remedies. Almost all early cultures universally hailed honey for its sweetening and nutritive qualities, as well as its topical healing properties for sores, wounds and skin ulcers. During wartime it was used on wounds as an antiseptic by the ancient Egyptians, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Chinese and even by the Germans as late as World War I.
Honey has long been consumed in foods and as an ingredient of food and beverages. The primary sugars of honey are also found as components of food and are considered to be Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In addition to water and naturally occurring sugars, Honey contains varying levels of Beeswax. The safety of Beeswax and other waxes has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, and Japan Wax were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2003, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Beeswax and plant waxes and reaffirmed the above conclusion. This is a foodstuff and unlikely to cause any reaction on the skin.
CAS: 8028-66-8
Function: Emollient/ humectant/ moisturising.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Tea tree oil: there has been extensive scientific study on its benefits, with promise of more evidence of its efficacy still to be published. Current data supports its use for antibacterial and antiseptic applications, treatment of acne, insect repellancy, antidandruff preparations and for the treatment of a wide range of skin complications.
First described in detail by members of the crew of Captain James Cook's expeditions in late 1700s, the plant gained widespread fame because of claims of its ability to treat skin ailments, cuts and burns. Extracts of the plant were used as topical antiseptics during World War II until superseded by more effective antimicrobial agents. The oil is more commonly used than the extract and has no anticipated or reported adverse effects when applied topically.
CAS: 85085-48-9
Function: Skin conditioning/Antimicrobial
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (argan oil) is the fixed oil expressed from the kernels of the African tree (Morroco) Argania spinosa. Argan oil is widely used in the cosmetic industry within anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and make-up products. Argan oil originates from Morocco. Argan oil helps in reducing the wrinkles and softening the skin. Argan oil is also known to protect the hydration of the skin and there are no reported adverse effects or expected adverse effects from the topical application of this oil.
Rich in natural sterols, this oil from Morocco is used by the local women to keep their skin soft, smooth and protected. Argan oil and preparations including argan oil have been used in traditional Moroccan medicine for centuries to cure skin diseases.
CAS: 223747-87-3
Function: Emollient/ skin conditioning.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is an enigma, since if one looks at the chemical structure, one would expect it to be a wax. Nature’s only liquid wax has some extraordinary properties, since it has the protective power of a wax but with the light emollient softness of oil. It is reported in the literature to alleviate minor skin irritations and to be effective in the treatment of dry and sore skin. The oil also has extensive use in the care of the hair. Jojoba is a good solvent for sebum and is used to control and complement this skin’s natural moisturiser. The safety of Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Isomerized Jojoba Oil, Jojoba Alcohol and Synthetic Jojoba Oil has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and based on the available information concluded that Jojoba Oil and the related ingredients were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients.
Indians and Mexicans have for a long time used jojoba oil as a hair conditioner and restorer. There is a substantial body of anecdotal evidence that suggests that the wax is beneficial in alleviating minor skin irritations. Jojoba oil has been shown to significantly soften the skin as measured by viscoelastic dynamometry. Jojoba oil may be effective in alleviating the symptoms of psoriasis and in controlling acne outbreaks. It has been used medicinally for the treatment of burns and sores etc. Topical irritations such as sunburn and chapped skin appear to respond to topical jojoba therapy. A substantial body of anecdotal evidence suggests that the wax is beneficial in alleviating minor skin irritations. It is a liquid wax that acts as a skin protectant and emollient.
Function: Emollient
CAS: 61789-91-1
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
This butter is very similar in benefits to cocoa butter, but does not have the same chocolate smell associated with it. It has been studied in the treatment of burns, dermatitis, wounds, and inflammatory skin conditions. It is a rich skin emollient, which is used traditionally (by the tribes who collect and prepare it) to accelerate wound healing. The presence of a small amount of a component called allantoin (which is a well-proven healing agent) might justify this effect. The butter melts at body temperature and is quickly absorbed by the skin to leave it soft and supple.
Function: Emollient
CAS: 91080-23-8
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Aloe vera is of the most exciting ingredients for the care and treatment of the skin. The inner (parynchemal) gel is extracted by carefully filleting it from the leaf. The soothing, cooling and healing effects of the gel are well documented and there is extensive scientific proof to demonstrate that the gel has great benefit in both protecting and repairing the skin from radiation damage (solar and thermal), improving wound healing and restoring normal skin function.
Function: Emollient
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Whey is the water dispersable part of milk that is separated from the curd in the manufacture of cheese. Whey or milk plasma is the liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained. It is a by-product of the manufacture of cheese or casein and has several commercial uses. Sweet whey is manufactured during the making of rennet types of hard cheese like cheddar or Swiss cheese. Acid whey (also known as "sour whey") is obtained during the making of acid types of cheese such as cottage cheese. Because whey contains lactose, it should be avoided by those who are lactose intolerant. Dried whey, a very common food additive, contains more than 70% lactose. Liquid whey contains lactose, vitamins, protein, and minerals, along with traces of fat. People with an intolerance to milk products should be warned on the label. In the general population no adverse effects are exprected or reported.
Function: Skin conditioning.
CAS: 92129-90-3
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Lactose is a disaccharide sugar that is found most notably in milk and is formed from galactose and glucose. Lactose makes up around 2-8% of milk (by weight), although the amount varies among species and individuals. It is extracted from sweet or sour whey. The name comes from lac, the Latin word for milk, plus the -ose ending used to name sugars. It has a formula of C12H22O11. It is not expected to show any adverse effects when applied to the skin at the levels used in cosmetic products.
Function: Humectant/ skin conditioning.
CAS: 63-42-3
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Cedrus atlantica. Cedarwood (Atlas Cedar). Country: France. Part used: wood. Traditional use: Good for stress related disorders. Said to soothe acne, eczema, arthritis and rheumatism. One of the most ancient oil traditionally used as a fixative in the perfumery industry. . Soothing woody aroma—helpful for oily skin and itchy scalp. Add to a fragrance jar in a wardrobe to repel moths. A very calming oil for respiratory problems. The oil is widely used for insect repellent activities and Turkish carpet shops are walled with cedarwood boards to deter the moths.
Function: Fragrance ingredient.
CAS: 8000-27-9
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
Salicylic acid occurs naturally in plants such as wintergreen leaves, willow bark and sweet birch bark, although it can also be manufactured in the laboratory. It is similar to the compound used in the manufacture of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), and it has anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties so it acts as a preservative in product formulations. It is also a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), making it gentler and less irritating than AHAs. In fact, its keratolytic (keratin-dissolving) properties have been used by dermatologists for decades. This mild peeling effect helps reduce blocked pores whilst also smoothing the look and feel of the skin, so it is used in acne treatments, anti-ageing products, anti-dandruff care, bath and body care, and depilatory creams.
The name salicylic acid (2-Hydroxybenzoic acid) is derived from the Latin salix meaning “willow,” from the bark of which it can be obtained. It is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and is probably best known for its use in anti-acne treatments. Salicylic acid was also isolated from the herb meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria, Syn. Spiraea ulmaria). Salicylic acid is known for its ability to ease aches and pains and reduce fevers. These medicinal properties, particularly fever relief, have been known since ancient times, and it was used as an anti-inflammatory drug.
Salicylic acid is a skin exfoliant and has been used in conjunction with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or alone for this purpose. It is a key ingredient for the treatment of acne, psoriasis, calluses, corns and warts. It works as a keratolytic by increasing the rate of skin cell turnover causing the cells of the epidermis to shed more readily, this helps prevent pores from clogging and allows for new cell growth. It has also been used in shampoos for the treatment of dandruff and has some skin-whitening properties. Excessive use can cause photosensitivity.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the safety of Salicylic Acid and permits its use as indirect food additives. Salicylic Acid is approved for use in Over-the-Counter (OTC) drug products. Salicylic acid is widely used as an FDA approved safe and effective acne drug product. It is also approved for use in OTC drugs for corn, callus and wart removal, as well as in antidandruff OTC drug products. The safety of Salicylic Acid and its salts and esters has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated scientific data and concluded that Salicylic Acid was safe as used when formulated to avoid skin irritation and when formulated to avoid increasing the skin's sun sensitivity, or, when increased sun sensitivity would be expected, directions for use include the daily use of sun protection.
Function: Antidandruff/ hair conditioning/ keratolytic/ masking/ preservative/ skin conditioning.
CAS: 69-72-7
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data. Kindle Edition.
A project is a temporary endeavor undertaken to create a unique product, service, or result. The temporary nature of projects indicates a beginning and an end to the project work or a phase of the project work. Projects can stand alone or be part of a program or portfolio.
A project is a system of elements that interact with each other. Complexity is a characteristic of a project or its environment that is difficult to manage due to human behavior, system behavior, and ambiguity. The nature and number of the interactions determine the degree of complexity in a project.
Complexity emerges from project elements, interactions between project elements, and interactions with other systems and the project environment. Though complexity cannot be controlled, project teams can modify their activities to address impacts that occur as a result of complexity.
Project teams often cannot foresee complexity emerging because it is the result of many interactions such as risks, dependencies, events, or relationships. Alternatively, a few causes may converge to produce a single complex effect, which makes isolating a specific cause of complexity difficult. Project complexity occurs as the result of individual elements within the project and project system as a whole. For example, complexity within a project may be amplified with a greater number or diversity of stakeholders, such as regulatory agencies, international financial institutions, multiple vendors, numerous specialty subcontractors, or local communities. These stakeholders can have a significant impact on the complexity of a project, both individually and collectively.
The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition
Zinc oxide (C1 77947). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists Zinc Oxide as a color additive exempt from certification. Zinc Oxide is safe for use in coloring products, including cosmetics and personal care products applied to the lips, and the area of the eye, provided it meets certain specifications. Zinc Oxide is also an approved colorant for drugs, and it is approved as an indirect food additive for use as a colorant of some polymers in contact with food. The FDA has also approved the use of Zinc Oxide for use in OTC skin protectants and ano-rectal skin protectant drug products at concentrations up to 25%, and in sunscreen drug products at concentrations up to 25%. FDA also includes Zinc Oxide on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) as a nutrient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has deferred evaluation of this ingredient because the safety has been assessed by FDA. This deferral of review is according to the provisions of the CIR Procedures. The SCCS concludes that ZnO nanomaterials with the following characteristics can be considered similar to the ZnO nanomaterials as evaluated in opinion SCCS/1489/12 and thus pose no or limited risk for use on the skin as UV filter in sunscreen formulations: 1. ZnO nanoparticles of purity ≥96%, with wurtzite crystalline structure and physical appearance as clusters that are rod-like, star-like and/or isometric shapes, with impurities consisting only of carbon dioxide and water, whilst any other impurities are less than 1% in total. 2. ZnO nanoparticles with a median diameter (D50: 50% of the number below this diameter) of the particle number size distribution above 30 nm, and the D1 (1% below this size) above 20nm. 3. ZnO nanoparticles that are either uncoated or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, dimethicone, dimethoxydiphenylsilanetriethoxycaprylylsilane cross-polymer, or octyl triethoxy silane. Other cosmetic ingredients can be used as coatings as long as they are demonstrated to the SCCS to be safe and do not affect the particle properties related to behaviour and/or effects, compared to the nanomaterials covered in the current opinion.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)
Xanthan gum. It is also known by the friendlier name of corn sugar gum. It is described as a high molecular weight natural carbohydrate (or more specifically polysaccharide), produced by a fermentation process. It is a listed ingredient in the British Pharmacopoeia and also used in foods. When used in creams and lotions it imparts a unique lubricity.
Xanthan gum is used to modify the texture of personal care products and to stabilize suspensions, oil-in-water emulsions and foams against separation. The high viscosity associated with xanthan gum solutions at low shear rates enables products to keep particles suspended or prevent oil droplets from coalescing. The viscosity drops when shear is applied, so that products can be easily removed, poured or squeezed from their containers. Once the force is removed, the solutions regain their initial viscosity almost immediately.
It is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products including makeup, skincare products and toothpaste.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.
Zeolite. Zeolites. Crystalline aluminosilicates, composed of silica (SiO2) and alumina (Al2O3), in various proportions plus metallic oxides. Produced by hydrothermal treatment of a solid aluminosilicate or of a gel obtained by the reaction of sodium hydroxide, alumina hydrate and sodium silicate. The initially obtained product, or a naturally occurring analog, may be partially ion-exchanged to introduce other cations. Specific zeolites are identified by notations indicating crystal structure and predominant cation, e.g., KA, CaX, NaY. The safety of Zeolite has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that all seventeen ingredients were safe as used in cosmetics and personal care products. They have a high heat of adsorption and ability to hydrate and dehydrate while maintaining structural stability. This hygroscopic property coupled with an inherent exothermic (heat-producing) reaction when transitioning from a dehydrated to a hydrated form make natural zeolites as self heating source. Extreme Care must be used with Zeolites.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.
Formulation is a mixture of ingredients prepared in a certain way and used for a specific purpose. A cosmetic formulation is the combination of ingredients that make up a cosmetic product. The formulation is responsible for the product's performance, appearance, and shelf life.
The ingredients in a cosmetic formulation can be divided into two main categories: active ingredients and inactive ingredients. Active ingredients are the ingredients that provide the product with its desired effect, such as moisturizing, exfoliating, or protecting the skin. Inactive ingredients are the ingredients that help to improve the product's performance, appearance, or shelf life, such as thickeners, preservatives, and fragrances.
The goal of cosmetic formulation is to develop safe, effective, and appealing products that meet consumer needs while adhering to regulatory guidelines and quality standards in the cosmetics industry.
Waxes are a mixture of hydrophobic organic substances of medium-chain length. Waxes will melt at temperatures in the range of 40°C up to 140°C without decomposition and will re-solidify unchanged. Solubility and consistency of waxes is strongly temperature-dependent. Waxes are classified into animal, vegetable and mineral types depending on their source.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
The physical quantity ‘viscosity’ gives information on how thick a fluid is and how easily it flows. In scientific terms, viscosity is the measure of a fluid’s internal flow resistance. It is the resistance which a fluid shows when being deformed.
In order to determine a fluid’s viscosity, you have to enter the field of viscometry, a subject area of a wider science called rheology. Rheology deals with the flow behavior and deformation of materials.
Imagine all materials as classified on a virtual scale from solid to liquid. Scientists specify solid materials as being elastic and liquids as being viscous. In everyday life, we mostly come across viscoelastic materials. That is, substances which are neither completely elastic, nor entirely viscous. According to a material’s properties, we either classify it as a viscoelastic solid (like e.g. sweet jelly) or as a viscoelastic liquid (like e.g. a yoghurt drink or shower gel).
The specific field of viscometry covers ideally viscous fluids, and – considering certain restrictions – also viscoelastic liquids, i.e. viscous fluids that contain an elastic portion. Fluids which flow easily show a low resistance to deformation. They are low-viscosity fluids. High-viscosity fluids resist deformation. Consequently, they do not flow easily.
What influences flow behavior?
- The substance's molecular structure
- The shear rate
- External conditions, like temperature or pressure
The dimensions of dynamic viscosity are force × time ÷ area. The unit of viscosity, accordingly, is newton-second per square metre, which is usually expressed as pascal-second in SI units.
Source: Official website of Anton-Paar and Britannica.com
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract. Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds (and occasionally the skins) of red grapes--the same kind that are pressed to make wine. Used extensively in Europe, grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties some consider even greater than the old standbys vitamin C and vitamin E. Antioxidants are believed to prevent and control numerous ailments by safeguarding cells against free radicals. The main benefit of grape fruit seed extract comes from proanthocyanidins. There are no adverse effect expected from the topical application of this extract. [CAS: 84929-27-1; EINECS: 284-511-6]. Function: Skin protecting.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.
Although less popular than o/w emulsions, these systems may be desirable when greater release of a medicating agent or the perception of greater emolliency is desired. Emulsifiers having an HLB range of 2.5 to 6 are frequently selected. When multiple emulsifiers are used, the predominant one is generally lipophilic with a smaller quantity of a hydrophilic emulsifier. These emulsions typically have a total of 45 to 80% oil phase.
Nowdays, formulators have become interested in more elegant w/o emulsions. This has been achieved by formulating with new emulsifying agents, emollient such as esters, Guerbet alcohols, and silicones. Selection of a suitable emollient depends on ability of the material to spread on skin with low tack, dermal compatibility, and perceived elegance by the user. In achieving this elegance, some researchers suggest a correlation of emollient and molecular weight of the emollients. In these studies, viscosity of w/o creams has correlated with molecular weight of the emollients used in test formulations.
High–molecular-weight co-emulsifiers formulated with high–molecular-weight emollients gave more stable w/o emulsions. The polarity of the emollients used was found to be important as well.
Emollients or mixtures of emollients with medium polarity gave test lotions the most desirable stability results. Anionic emulsifiers are generally inefficient w/o emulsion stabilizers, because more surface active agents are often needed to stabilize these emulsions. Sorbitan stearates and oleates are effective emulsifiers when
used at 0.5 to 5.0% sorbitan isostearates, being branched chain materials, give a very uniform particle size for w/o emulsions.
Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach
TEWL stands for transepidermal water loss. It is the amount of water that evaporates from the outermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) to the surrounding environment. TEWL is a natural process, but it can be increased by certain factors, such as dry air, hot weather, and harsh soaps.
TEWL is measured in grams per square meter per hour (g/m2/h). Normal TEWL rates range from 2.3 to 44 g/m2/h. However, TEWL can be higher in people with dry skin, eczema, or other skin conditions.
From the classic experiment by Pinson in 1942, comparing insensible perspiration from the skin on contralateral body sites with and without sweat glands inactivated by formaldehyde to our modern-day evaluations of skin-surface water evaporation, TEWL is taken as a true reflection of SC barrier function only when there is no sweat gland activity and the skin surface is dry.
This is achieved by conducting measurements in controlled temperature and humidity environments, typically 21°C, 50% relative humidity (RH) with subjects at rest. Basal or baseline TEWL is the resting rate of evaporative loss of water through normal nonperturbed skin. Although variation is observed from one body site to another, basal TEWL is low in normal healthy intact human skin. Basal TEWL is a primary end point used to dimension the variability in skin barrier function across age, body site, ethnicity, and other factors. Although in vitro evidence has challenged the validity of the assumption that TEWL is predictive of the skin’s permeability to topical penetrants more recent validation studies support the generally agreed conclusion that TEWL is the current best objective measure of the skin’s barrier to evaporative water loss.
The three instruments most commonly used to noninvasively measure TEWL are the Tewameter® evaporimeter (Courage & Khazaka, Cologne, Germany), the Dermalab TEWL module (Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark), and the ServoMed® evaporimeter (Servomed, Varberg, Sweden).
Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmeticdevelopment - Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts
Unique Selling Point or Unique Selling Proposition is a marketing term that describes the one thing that makes your product or service different from the competition. It is what makes your product or service special and worth buying.
A good USP should be:
Clear and concise
Believable
Persuasive
Relevant to the target audience
Sea mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp. The algae has resistance against harsh environmental stress (UV light, water movements and abrasions) that is related to its content of a special sulphated polysaccharide called fucodian that protects the algae's body wall from losing integrity and stability. It contains proteins, lipids microturients, vitamins and sugar that lead to a revitalizing and energizing action on skin cells. It has been reported that fucodian has radical scavenging and hyaluronidase inhibitory properties. It is these properties that make Wakame a useful antiaging active ingredient in cosmetics.
Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is an extract of the Alga, Undaria pinnatifida, Alariaceae. Undaria pinnatifida. Sea Mustard, Wakame, Japanese Kelp. The algae has resistance against harsh environmental stress (UV light, water movements and abrasions) that is related to its content of a special sulphated polysaccharide called fucoidan that protects the algae’s body wall from losing integrity and stability. It contains proteins, lipids, micronutrients, vitamins and sugar that lead to a revitalizing and energizing action on skin cells. It has been reported that fucoidan has radical scavenging and hyaluronidase inhibitory properties. It is these properties that make Wakame a useful antiaging active ingredient in cosmetics. Supplier: Crodarom produces a glycerin/aqueous extract of U. pinnatifida (Phytessence Wakame) and has shown that the protection of hyaluronic acid degradation by inhibition of hyaluronidase enzyme activity prevents deterioration of skin tissues, decrease of dermal thickness and improved firmness.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)
A tagline is a short phrase that captures a company's brand essence, personality, and positioning, and distinguishes the company from its competitors. Deceptively simple, taglines are not arbitrary. They grow out of an intensive strategic and creative process.
Taglines have become shorthand for what a brand stands for and delivers. Originally used in advertising as the centerpiece of a global marketing campaign, taglines historically have had much shorter life spans than logos. The best taglines have a long life, and transcend marketplace and lifestyle changes. They are meaningful and memorable, and require frequent and consistent use.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
