Polymers
Polymeric materials can interact both with protein of the skin surface and with skin lipids. Parameters influencing the interaction between skin surface and the polymers are as follows:
- The positive charge density: the more cationic the character of the polymer, the better the polymer interaction with negatively charged skin surface.
- The hydrophobicity of polymer: grafting of hydrophobic moieties on the polymer backbone favor van der Waals interactions with hydrophobic areas of the keratin.
- The molecular weight of the polymer: the higher the polymer size, the more its substantivity to the skin (film-forming properties). However, very low–molecular weight polymers can easily penetrate the skin surface chinks and as such adsorb into the superficial stratum disjonctum.
- The nature of surfactants neighboring the polymer in the finished product: the polymer can interact with surfactants either through their charges or through hydrophobic interactions; also, competition between polymer and surfactants for skin anchoring sites can occur. In both cases, deposition and adsorption of polymer onto the skin surface is weakened.
Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach