Polymers

Polymers

Polymeric materials can interact both with protein of the skin surface and with skin lipids. Parameters influencing the interaction between skin surface and the polymers are as follows:

  1. The positive charge density: the more cationic the character of the polymer, the better the polymer interaction with negatively charged skin surface.
  2. The hydrophobicity of polymer: grafting of hydrophobic moieties on the polymer backbone favor van der Waals interactions with hydrophobic areas of the keratin.
  3. The molecular weight of the polymer: the higher the polymer size, the more its substantivity to the skin (film-forming properties). However, very low–molecular weight polymers can easily penetrate the skin surface chinks and as such adsorb into the superficial stratum disjonctum.
  4. The nature of surfactants neighboring the polymer in the finished product: the polymer can interact with surfactants either through their charges or through hydrophobic interactions; also, competition between polymer and surfactants for skin anchoring sites can occur. In both cases, deposition and adsorption of polymer onto the skin surface is weakened.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach