The viscosity of fluids can be modified by addition of particulates that may strictly change the viscosity index. When non-interacting buoyant particles are used in these
fluids, the viscosity of the dispersion can be predicted using the Einstein relation. Examples of such rheology-modifying substances include silica gels, fumed silica, carbon black, titanium dioxide and aluminum-magnesium-stearates when used at very small concentrations. Low molecular weight polymers also fit in this category and may be preferred if a smooth or fluid like formulation is desired.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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The use of rheological additives such as clays, plant exudates, and natural polymers, to formulate personal-care products dates back to ancient times. These rheological additives are used to thicken the fluid, suspend dispersions of additives in the fluid, and improve the stability of the ensuing dispersion or emulsion as a function of temperature and shear history. An attempt will be made in this chapter to classify the wide array of rheological additives with respect to the actual function they serve in the final product.

Water and oils form the base fluids in which most personal-care and cosmetic products are formulated. These base fluids are generally classed as viscous or Newtonian fluids in that they possess a characteristic viscosity that is independent of the imposed rate of deformation. Newtonian fluids are also viewed as ideal fluids, in that they flow readily when subjected to very low deformations.
Non-Newtonian fluids on the other hand possess viscosities that are dependent on the rate of deformation and may exhibit other properties such as elasticity, yield stress, and thixotropy not seen in Newtonian fluids.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Annatto, or norbixin, is extracted from the Bixa orellana or lipstick tree; it gives a yellow to deep orange color. The plant has entered into commercial cultivation for the production of this dye, which is used mainly in the food industry and for coloring dairy products such as butter and cheese, margarine and edible oils.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (p. 208).

Chelating agents such as phytic acid extracted from rice bran could be added to enhance the activity of the natural preservative. There are a number of suppliers for this material. Another option is to use a naturally produced material such as sodium gluconate. Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid, produced by the fermentation of glucose. It is a white crystalline powder, very soluble in water. Non-corrosive, nontoxic and readily biodegradable (98% after two days), sodium gluconate is an effective chelating agent especially in alkaline and concentrated alkaline solutions.

It forms stable chelates with calcium, iron, copper, aluminum and other heavy metals. It is as effective as other chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and related salts. Aqueous solutions of sodium gluconate are resistant to oxidation and reduction, even at high temperatures. However, it is easily degraded biologically (98% after two days) and thus presents no wastewater problem. It is used in the food industry.

Chelating agents interfere with the cellular membranes that surround all organisms and weaken them by depriving them of the trace elements that they need for cellular function. Extremely high levels of chelating agent have been used as preservatives on their own.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (pp. 83-84).

Saponins are glycoside compounds that are often referred to as natural detergents because of their ability to form foaming solutions in water. The majority of naturally occurring saponins are of the triterpenoidal type, with the steroidal based saponins forming a much smaller class. The steroidal saponins are based on a backbone of a (C30) triterpenoid saponin nucleus attached via C3 and an ether bond to a sugar side chain, whereas the steroidal are based on a choline (C27) steroid backbone. The aglycone of the triterpenoidal derivative is known as a sapogenin, whereas the steroidal aglycone derivatives are known as saraponins.

The non-saccharide portion (aglycone) of the saponin molecule is called the “genin” or “sapogenin”. Saponins are divided into three main classes depending on the type of sapogenin present:

• Triterpene glycosides - there are over more than 350 sapogenins and more than 750 triterpene glycosides in the triterpene glycoside class.
• Steroid glycosides  
• Steroid alkaloid glycosides  

The ability of a saponin to foam is caused by the combination of the non-polar sapogenin and the water-soluble side chain present on the molecule. The foams tend to be stable and have been used in fire extinguishers as the foaming agent. They are also used to produce foam in beer and are responsible for the natural foam in root beer. They have been used as the foaming agent in toothpaste and are employed by local people where the plants occur as a shampoo and laundry detergent.

Typical soap plants include Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Soapbark (Quillaia saponaria), Soaproot (Chlorogalum pomeridianum) and Soapnut (Sapindus spp).

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1)

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder. The kernels from apricots are dried and ground to produce a smooth, soft but gently persuasive powder that can be used to gently slough away dead skin cells. The passage of skin cells from the living epidermis to the top layer of dead stratum corneum is a natural process, and the skin naturally loses millions of dead skin cells each day (they are the major component of dust in the bedroom!). However, this uppermost layer of the skin is often quite coarse and flaky and can spoil the appearance of the complexion, The use of a gentle exfoliant will restore smoothness and softness to the skin, without causing any damage to underlying tissue. The safety of Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated scientific data and concluded that Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal were safe for topical application to humans in the present practices of use and concentration. In 2002, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from the seeds of the cucumber, Cucumis sativus L., Cucurbitaceae. Sp.gr.: 0.922. Saponification value: 185. Iodine value: 125. Average carbon number: 17.9. Average molecular weight: 278.3. C14:0 0.1%; C16:0 11%; C16:1 0.5%;C17:0 0.05%; C18:0 7.5%; C18:1 17.0%; C18:2 64.0%;C18:3 0.5%; C20:1 0.05%; C22:2 0.1%. It also contains tocopherols 600-700ppm and phytosterols 4000-5000ppm. The seeds are rich in oil with a nutty flavour that is said to resemble olive oil and so is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The high levels of phytosterols should make it a useful ingredient in skin care products. It has been shown that phytosterols help the skin strengthen its lipid barrier and restores the moisture balance, smoothing the skin’s surface and improving skin elasticity. Phytosterols are also known to stimulate skin cells and encourage the regeneration of healthy skin cells. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes cucumber among the 20 most frequently consumed raw vegetables. Botanical and botanically derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Dextrin. White dextrins are prepared by heating dry starch in the presence of an acid at a temperature generally below 150°C. The statement "ADI not specified" means that, on the basis of the available data (toxicological, biochemical, and other), the total daily intake of the substance, arising from its use or uses at the levels necessary to achieve the desired effect and from its acceptable background in food, does not, in the opinion of the Committee, represent a hazard to health. For this reason, and for the reasons stated in individual evaluations, the establishment of an acceptable daily intake (ADI) in mg/kg bw is not deemed necessary.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Geraniol is a sweet, rose-like fragrancing agent found in fruits such as apples, cherries and grapefruit, as well as in bay leaves, citronella oil, ginger, lavender and essential oils of geranium and lemon. It can also be produced synthetically. It is used in both perfumes and after-shaves (especially in combination with attar of roses and orange blossom oil), as well as bath and body care, depilatories, hair care, lipsticks and suncare. It is one of the declared allergens found in those essential oils. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Geraniol on its lists of flavoring substance considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). The safety of Geraniol has been evaluated by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Expert Panel (REXPAN). Based on this evaluation, an International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard has been established. The IFRA Standard restricts the use of Geraniol in fragrances because of potential sensitization. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) defers review of individual fragrance ingredients to the IFRA program unless the ingredient has significant uses other than as a fragrance.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Ginkgo biloba. Traditional use: Long revered in traditional Chinese herbal medicine, ginkgo is now known to have important implications in the treatment of age-related disorders and circulatory problems. The Council of Europe lists the following cosmetic effects attributed to ginkgo biloba extracts: tonic, stimulant and vasodilator. Folklore: The ginkgo species was almost destroyed during the Ice Age but survived in China, where it was cultivated as a sacred tree, with the exception of the Maidenhair tree, the plants of this order are found only as fossils. Individual trees may live as long as 1000 years.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Kojic acid, the chemical name 5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyrone, is used in cosmetic products as a skin whitening or depigmenting agent. Kojic acid is a chelating agent produced by several species of fungi, especially Aspergillus oryzae, which has the Japanese common name of koji. It is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice, when producing sake (Japanese rice wine). It is used in food and cosmetics to help preserve against color changes. Kojic acid also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Kojic acid markedly inactivated isolated tyrosinase by chelation. In cultured human melanocytes, tyrosinase activity per well was slightly reduced at the concentration range between 0.1 mM and 0.5 mM but was rapidly dose-dependently reduced at higher concentration. The inhibitory effect of kojic acid on tyrosinase activity in the cell culture system is smaller than that of arbutin at concentrations that do not affect cell viability, even though marked inactivation was observed in isolated tyrosinase. There are conflicting reports on the effectiveness in kojic acid. [Maeda and Fukuda]. Kojic acid may take two to three months to show efficacy and thus may seem rather slow to be effective.  However, kojic acid does not have any side effects during the 10- to 20-month period during normal application on the skin. Kojic dipalmitate is mentioned in the Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients, but derivative esters of Kojic acids are also used. The substance is listed as an emollient, whereas Kojic acid itself is listed as an antioxidant. Results of the range finding test indicated that the LD50 was in the range of 4000 to 16000 mg/kg bw. In the main experiment lethargy, piloerection, abnormal body carriage, ataxia and depressed respiration rate were observed shortly after dosing. These signs were accompanied by gasping amongst mice treated at 6400 mg/kg bw. Bodyweight increases of rats treated at 16000 mg/kg bw were slightly depressed during the first week. Recovery of survivors was apparently complete within four days of dosing. Autopsy revealed congestion of the lungs and pallor of the liver, kidneys and spleen in animals died after treatment. The LD50 and its 95% confidence limits were calculated to be 5100 (3900 – 6700) mg/kg bw. No erythema or oedema occurred in the test performed. Kojic acid was not considered to be an irritant to rabbit skin. In the preliminary test and in the first experiment, 3% Kojic acid aqueous solution caused no eye disturbances. In the second experiment mild transient hyperemia was observed in 2 of 4 animals. No other inflammatory changes or corneal disturbances were observed. Eye irritability was reported to be very weak. In the supplementary test no specific response was observed for up to 72 hours. Two out of 20 animals showed a positive reaction, indicating a sensitising potential of the substance. Kojic acid is sensitising in humans. Based on the information provided, margins of safety of respectively 35 (face and hands), 58 (hands) and 88 (face) have been calculated suggesting that the use of Kojic acid at a maximum concentration of 1.0% in skin care formulations poses a risk to the health of the consumer. In addition, other parts of the skin might be exposed to Kojic acid. Kojic acid has the potential to induce skin sensitisation. Relevant data on kinetics of Kojic acid after dermal application may be submitted to refine the MOS approach..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Lavandula Angustifolia Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, Labiatae. is distilled from the flower buds of Lavandula angustifolia. It has the fresh, clean scent of lavender has been popular for centuries. The plant is often used as a gentle tonic for the nervous system and is said to soothe headaches and other aches and pains. The soothing and antiseptic qualities make lavender useful in all skin care. This material from the condensate of the distillation of the essential oil contains water soluble constituents as well as a small amount the essential oil and has a strong Lavender scent. It may be used alone as a facial tonic/toner or in blends to soothe irritated or burned skin. No adverse effects are expected or have been reported from the topical use of this material..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Water is an aqueous solution of the steam distillate obtained from the Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis L., Lamiaceae. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Powder, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Water and Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Water are ingredients made from the herb, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinals). When the ingredient name does not include a plant part, it means that the ingredient is made from the whole plant, rather than a specific plant part. In cosmetics and personal care products, Rosemary-derived ingredients are used in the formulation of a wide variety of product types, including shampoos, shaving products, skin care products, suntan products, bath products, makeup, cleansing products, hair conditioners, permanent waves, shampoos and personal cleanliness products. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) on its list of spices and other natural seasonings and flavorings considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Botanical and botanically-derived ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are generally mild and safe. Prior to marketing the finished cosmetic product, the safety of each ingredient must be substantiated in accordance with 21 CFR 740.10. Safety substantiation of cosmetic ingredients may include tests for ocular and skin irritation as well as allergenicity, phototoxicity, photoallergenicity and mutagenicity, depending on the application or intended use. There is a considerable body of information about the safety of botanical ingredients and a well established history of use. These resources are consulted to ensure the safety of these materials as they are used in cosmetics and personal care products..

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Zeolite. Zeolites. Crystalline aluminosilicates, composed of silica (SiO2) and alumina (Al2O3), in various proportions plus metallic oxides. Produced by hydrothermal treatment of a solid aluminosilicate or of a gel obtained by the reaction of sodium hydroxide, alumina hydrate and sodium silicate. The initially obtained product, or a naturally occurring analog, may be partially ion-exchanged to introduce other cations. Specific zeolites are identified by notations indicating crystal structure and predominant cation, e.g., KA, CaX, NaY. The safety of Zeolite has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that all seventeen ingredients were safe as used in cosmetics and personal care products. They have a high heat of adsorption and ability to hydrate and dehydrate while maintaining structural stability. This hygroscopic property coupled with an inherent exothermic (heat-producing) reaction when transitioning from a dehydrated to a hydrated form make natural zeolites as self heating source. Extreme Care must be used with Zeolites.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Xanthan gum. It is also known by the friendlier name of corn sugar gum. It is described as a high molecular weight natural carbohydrate (or more specifically polysaccharide), produced by a fermentation process. It is a listed ingredient in the British Pharmacopoeia and also used in foods. When used in creams and lotions it imparts a unique lubricity.

Xanthan gum is used to modify the texture of personal care products and to stabilize suspensions, oil-in-water emulsions and foams against separation. The high viscosity associated with xanthan gum solutions at low shear rates enables products to keep particles suspended or prevent oil droplets from coalescing. The viscosity drops when shear is applied, so that products can be easily removed, poured or squeezed from their containers. Once the force is removed, the solutions regain their initial viscosity almost immediately.

It is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products including makeup, skincare products and toothpaste.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract. Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds (and occasionally the skins) of red grapes--the same kind that are pressed to make wine. Used extensively in Europe, grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties some consider even greater than the old standbys vitamin C and vitamin E. Antioxidants are believed to prevent and control numerous ailments by safeguarding cells against free radicals. The main benefit of grape fruit seed extract comes from proanthocyanidins. There are no adverse effect expected from the topical application of this extract. [CAS: 84929-27-1; EINECS: 284-511-6]. Function: Skin protecting.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Fruit Powder. A cocoa extract can provide cocoa flavanols and contain a high level of phytonutrients. Contains theobromine in most cases. Reported to be antiseptic, diuretic, ecbolic, emmenagogue, and parasiticide, cocao is a folk remedy for alopecia, burns, cough, dry lips, eyes, fever, listlessness, malaria, nephrosis, parturition, pregnancy, rheumatism, snakebite, and cocoa butter is even used to eliminate facial wrinkles. Chocolate contains chemical similar to those found in Red Wine, Grape seed, and Green Tea that can aid blood circulation, reduce blood pressure, and provide other studies confirm flavonoids, such as those in cocoa, decrease oxidation of LDL cholesterol, decrease the body's inflammatory immune responses, facilitate the dilation of arteries, and inhibit the aggregation of platelets in the bloodstream. There are no adverse effects anticipated for the topical application of this powder.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Stearic acid is a natural fatty acid which occurs in both animals and plants. Many suppliers only use the vegetable-derived source of this wax. It forms the basis of many lotions and emulsions, and helps to protect the skin against moisture loss. It can be made to form a soap in situ with triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, which helps to keep the oil and the water in the emulsion from separating. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Stearic Acid on its list of direct food additives considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Stearic Acid is also permitted as a direct food additive in chewing gum base. The FDA also includes fatty acids on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food. The safety of Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid and Palmitic Acid has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetic products. STEARIC ACID. [CAS: 57-11-4; EINECS: 200-313-4]. Function: Emulsifying/ emulsion stabilising/ refatting/ cleansing.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract is an extract of the flowers of the Damask Rose, Rosa damascena, Rosaceae. Rosa damascena, called rose otto or attar of roses, is made by picking new blooms early in the morning before the oil and scent dissipates in the sun. Oil is extracted when the petals are steamed. Attar of roses has been used in cosmetics, lotions, and perfumes around the world for centuries, and the flowers can also provide a hint of colour in emollients. Rosa damascena sometimes called the Rose of Castile, is a rose hybrid, derived from Rosa gallica and Rosa moschata. DNA analysis has shown that a third species, Rosa fedtschenkoana, is associated with the Damask rose. The Damask rose is commonly used to flavor food and to make rose water. Rose extract and rose oil have a host of beneficial affects on the skin and are great for promoting a youthful complexion with good tone, elasticity and an even colored complexion. Toxicity class D acute oral, Dermal Irritation class C, Dermal sensitisation class D (2%). Rated safe during pregnancy, Mucous Membrane C-D (non-irritant). Not in the warning list for pregnancy.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

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Piper longum fruit extract. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Lactic acid is found in nature in milk, it is also found in the skin. The role of lactic acid is to improve the integrity of the acid mantle of the skin and it acts as part of the skin’s natural moisturising function. It not only acts as an astringent, but also helps to moderate the pH of the skin to keep it slightly the acidic (the ideal value). Lactic acid is used in skin softening preparations and has been used at higher levels for the treatment of thickened skin conditions (e.g. calluses, warts, etc). The SCCNFP adopted a position paper (SCCNFP/ 0370/ 00) (1) on the safety of AHA based on studies on short term phototoxicity (sensitivity of human skin to UV-induced damage: sunburn cells and pyrimidine dimers production) and skin irritation. The SCCNFP considered that there was a need for more information in order to provide a full scientific assessment of the safety of AHA. However, on the precautionary principle, the SCCNFP suggested that: lactic acid up to a maximum level of 2.5 % and a pH ≥ 5.0. [CAS: 50-21-5; EINECS: 200-018-0]. Function: Buffering/ humectant/ skin conditioning. The actual or estimated LD50 value: 3,543 mg/kg body weight. AICS status (NICNAS Australia): AICS Compliant. Oral LD50 value (rat): 3,543 mg/kg. Dermal LD50 value (rabbit): 2,000 mg/kg. Lactic Acid.  CIR: Concentration or other limitation on use for safe with qualifications conclusion: </=10%, at final formulation pH>/=3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection;</=30%, at final formulation pH>/=3.0, in products designed for brief, discontin-uous use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection. 

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Inositol is a naturally occurring nutrient that is usually classified as a carbocyclic polyol. The most common form of inositol is sometimes referred to as myo-inositol. In the human body, inositol plays a major role in preventing the collection of fats in the liver, as well as promoting healthy hair growth. The presence of the nutrient also aids in efficient processing of nutrients into the conversion of energy, which in turn helps the body to maintain a healthy metabolism. [CAS: 87-89-8; EINECS: 201-781-2]. Function: Antistatic/ hair conditioning/ humectant. The actual or estimated LD50 value: 10,000 mg/kg body weight. AICS status (NICNAS Australia): AICS Compliant. [Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cysteine, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid]. Follicusan™ contains biologically active signaling proteins, ethyl panthenol (provitamin B5), inositol, as well as acetyl cysteine and  acetyl methionine, in a water-alcohol medium. The product vitalizes the cells of the scalp, including the hair follicles, and thus counteracts premature, accelerated hair loss (alopecia). Follicusan™ is a whitish, opaque liquid and dissolves in water and (used at the recommended maximum concentration of 5 %) dissolves in water-alcohol mixtures with a maximum alcohol content of 50 % w/w. Within the pH range 3.5 to 5.5 the proteins in Follicusan™ may precipitate, therefore when formulating with Follicusan™ this pH range should be avoided.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Dead Sea Mud. The thermal baths of the Dead Sea are contemporary to Great King Solomon. Their reputation of efficacy spread throughout the Antique world. Cleopatra imported salts from the Dead Sea for her beauty care. The Dead Sea is situated 400 meters below sea level. The water of the rivers that flow into it cannot flow out. It concentrates, evaporates, then progressively deposits treasures such as mineral salts and organic sediments eroded from the Judean Mounts. The salinity of the Dead Sea is thus 10 times higher than that of any other sea. Today, many countries encourage their citizens suffering from psoriasis or arthritis to make a stay at the thermal baths of the Dead Sea as the mud and salts bring relief from these distressing conditions. The much sought-after salts and mud are also quite famous for their remineralizing and purifying properties. The mud is highly recommended for seborrheic skin or skin suffering from acne, and Dead Sea mud is very efficient for skin care, to deep cleanse and also to be used to relieve painful joints. The black mud, rich in minerals, is composed of layers of clay sediments constituted as millennia passed. The concentration in minerals is high. The mud contains natural exfoliating agents with an action that purifies and tones the skin. As a result, the skin is more supple and smoother. In a mask, the mud can be used to balance and smooth the skin. The skin is cleaned in depth and as a result ends up nourished and better hydrated. In scrubs, it provides a light lifting to leave the skin fresh and revitalized. On the hair, in a mask or in a shampoo, it is used to clean the hair, get rid of excess sebum and rebalance the scalp. In products designed for body, it is said to favor cellular exchanges and slimming and helps to improve the elasticity of the skin. As the figure gets thinner, the skin breathes. Ideal for anti-stress cures or after birth, around the joints and to relieve pains. The salts of the Dead Sea bring a calming and relaxing effect. In a bath, they enable the body to feel well and are an ideal solution for body tiredness, muscular or nervous tension. In cosmetics, the salts purify, cleanse and remineralize the skin for a progressive come back to a healthy and supple aspect. Their beneficial aspect is furthermore improved when associated with warm applications of Dead Sea mud.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)

Bamboo Silica is one of the natural sources of plant silica. Lessonia has Bamboo 200, 500, 1000 and Bamboo 100. Bamboo Exfoliator is a solidified organic silica extracted from the nodes of specific bamboo stems, called tabasheer in the traditional Indian medicine. Bamboo 100 is especially ideal for microdermabrasion since it improves skin refinement and complexion clearness. Another exfoliant based on bamboo silica is available from Libiol. The bamboo exfoliant is obtained from the bamboo tabasheer stems collected in the form of an exudate that crystallizes at ambient temperature. The product is presented in the form of a very hard white mass. After crushing, one obtains a crystalline powder very rich in mineral salt. It is a source of silica (SiO2) since this particular variety of bamboo contains nearly 70% of it among the other minerals found. The bamboo exfoliant is particularly interesting for the manufacture of exfoliating creams or gels to remove the dead cells and debris from the skin surface. Bamboosilk from Naturactiva. Certain female bamboo contain a white secretion in their joints called tabasheer. It consists almost of pure hydrated silica and has been used in Indian phytotherapy for its remineralizing properties in treatment of arthritis, osteoporosis, and for strengthening hair and nails. Eastern medicinal tradition describes Tabasheer as alkaline, cold in nature and sweet in taste. It is considered as an aphrodisiac and tonic in China where it is called tian zhu huang. Bamboosilk imparts to powder formulations a variety of properties that include: a high sebum absorption capacity, a mattifying aspect and a silky smooth feel. It also helps to improve the ease of application and the spreadability for body lotions, absorbs excessive perspiration, reduces lipstick exudation, adds volume in mascaras and improves nail polish wear.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)

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Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract is an extract of the fruit of the Gamboge Tree, Garcinia cambogia, Guttiferae. Garcinia Cambogia (Malabar Tamarind) is a small fruit that has some traditional usage to enhance the culinary experience of a meal, but beyond that has limited medicinal usage. It is a very good source of hydroxycitric acids (structurally related to citric acid, a sour flavorant) and one of the isomers, known as (-)-Hydroxycitric acid, is thought to help in weight control. Several studies have shown that Garcinia cambogia plays an important role in the regulation of endogenous lipid biosynthesis. This effect is specially attributed to (-)-hydroxycitric acid (HCA) inhibiting the enzyme ATP-dependent citrate lyase, which catalyzes the cleavage of citrate to oxaloacetate and acetyl-CoA. Studies conducted in experimental animals have not reported increased mortality or significant toxicity. Furthermore, at the doses usually administered, no differences have been reported in terms of side effects or adverse events (those studied) in humans between individuals treated with G. cambogia and controls.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Hydrogen Peroxide is a clear, colorless liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Hydrogen Peroxide can be found in a wide variety of hair care products such as hair dyes, hair bleaches, conditioners, shampoos and rinses, hair bleaches and shampoos. It is also used in tooth whitening products. Hydrogen Peroxide is also sold as an antiseptic at concentrations of 2.5-3%. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Hydrogen Peroxide in its list of substances affirmed Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for use in food. Hydrogen peroxide is used as an antimicrobial agent, an oxidizing and reducing agent, and bleaching agent in foods such as milk and cheese products, wine, vinegar, starch and instant tea. The FDA also allows Hydrogen Peroxide to be used in Over-the-Counter (OTC) first aid antiseptics. Hydrogen Peroxide is added to cosmetics and personal care products as an antimicrobial agent and as an oxidizing agent. The function of antimicrobial agents is to kill or inhibit the growth or reproduction of microorganisms. In cosmetics and personal care products, oxidizing agents are used to form dyestuffs during oxidative hair dyeing, and to oxygenate stains on the teeth to further whiten the teeth.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Niacinamide and Niacin on its list of direct food substances affirmed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Both ingredients are also GRAS as nutrients and/or dietary supplements. The safety of Niacinamide and Niacin has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the available scientific data and concluded that Niacinamide and Niacin were safe in the current practices of use and concentration in cosmetics and personal care products. Niacinamide (aka nicotinamide) and Niacin (aka nicotinic acid) are heterocyclic aromatic compounds which function in cosmetics primarily as hair and skin conditioning agents. Niacinamide is used in around 30 cosmetic formulations including shampoos, hair tonics, skin moisturizers, and cleansing formulations. Niacin is used in a few similar product types. The concentration of use of Niacinamide varies from a low of 0.0001% in night preparations to a high of 3% in body and hand creams, lotions, powders and sprays. Niacin concentrations of use range from 0.01% in body and hand creams, lotions, powders and sprays to 0.1% in paste masks (mud packs). Both ingredients are accepted for use in cosmetics in Japan and the European Union. Both are GRAS direct food additives and nutrient and/or dietary supplements. Niacinamide may be used in clinical treatment of hypercholesteremia and Niacin in prevention of pellegra and treatment of certain psychological disorders. Both ingredients are readily absorbed from skin, blood, and the intestines and widely distribute throughout the body. Metabolites include N1-methylnicotinamide and N1-methyl-4-pyridone-3-carboxamide. Excretion is primarily through the urinary tract. While Niacinamide is more toxic than Niacin in acute toxicity studies, both are relatively non-toxic. Short-term oral, parenteral, or dermal toxicity studies did not identify significant irreversible effects. Niacinamide, evaluated in an in vitro test to predict ocular irritation, was not an acute ocular hazard. Animal testing of Niacinamide in rabbits in actual formulations produced mostly non-irritant reactions, with only some marginally irritating responses. Skin irritation tests of up to 2.5% Niacinamide in rabbits produced only marginal irritation. Skin sensitization tests of Niacinamide at 5% during induction and 20% during challenge were negative in guinea pigs. Neither cosmetic ingredient was mutagenic in Ames tests, with or without metabolic activation. Niacinamide and Niacin at 2 mg/ml were negative in a chromosome aberration test in Chinese hamster ovary cells, but did produce large structural chromosome aberrations at 3 mg/ml. Niacinamide induced sister chromatid exchanges in Chinese hamster ovary cells, but Niacin did not. Under certain circumstances, Niacinamide can cause an increase in unscheduled DNA synthesis in human lymphocytes treated with UV or a nitrosoguanidine compound. Niacinamide itself was not carcinogenic when administered (1%) in the drinking water of mice. No data on the carcinogenic effect of Niacin were available. Niacinamide can moderate the induction of tumors by established carcinogens. Niacinamide in combination with streptozotocin (a nitrosourea compound) or with heliotrine (a pyrrolizidine alkaloid), produced pancreatic islet tumors. On the other hand, Niacinamide reduced the renal adenomas produced by streptozotocin; and intestinal and bladder tumors induced by a preparation of bracken fern. Niacinamide evaluated in in vitro test systems did affect development, but Niacinamide reduced the reproductive/developmental toxicity of 2-aminonicotinamide-amino-1,3,4-thiadiazole hydrochloride and urethane. Clinical testing of Niacinamide produced no stinging sensation at concentrations up to 10%, use tests produced no irritation at concentrations up to 5%, and a 21-day cumulative irritation test at concentrations up to 5% resulted in no irritancy. Niacinamide was not a sensitizer, nor was it a photosensitizer. The CIR Expert Panel considered that Niacinamide and Niacin are sufficiently similar from a toxicologic standpoint to combine the available data and reach a conclusion on the safety of both as cosmetic ingredients. Overall, these ingredients are non-toxic at levels considerably higher than would be experienced in cosmetic products. Clinical testing confirms that these ingredients are not significant skin irritants, sensitizers or photosensitizers. While certain formulations were marginal to slight ocular irritants, other formulations were not. Niacinamide, while not carcinogenic alone, can modulate the induction of tumors by certain established carcinogens. The Panel noted that the doses in these studies are high relative to the low concentrations at which Niacinamide is used in cosmetic formulations. In neither case (tumor protection or tumor promotion) are these findings considered relevant to the use of Niacinamide at its current low concentrations of use in cosmetics. Both ingredients were considered safe as used in cosmetics.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Piper Longum Fruit Extract is the extract of the fruit of the Long Pepper, Piper longum L., Piperaceae. The fruit contains 1% volatile oil, resin, alkaloids Piperin and piperlonguminine, a waxy alkaloid N-isobutyl deca-trans-2-trans-4-dienamide and a terpenoid substance. The roots have piperine, periongumine or piplartin, dihydro-stigmasterol, which have been the reason that it is popularly used in traditional practice to promote respiratory health. In a few weeks-clinical study with 20 children Piper longum extract significantly benefited respiratory function. It has been known to effectively reduce passive cutaneous anaphylaxis in rats and proteacted guinea pigs against antigen induced bronchospasm. (Dahanukar.S et.al.Indian Drugs 19:271(1982). Major chemical constituents: Essential oil. Mono and sesquiterpenes, caryophyllene (mainly), Piperine, Piperlongumine, Piperlonguminine, Pipernonaline, Piperundecalidine, Pipercide, Sesamin, B- sitosterol four aristolactams (cepharanone B. aristolactum All. Piperlactum A and  piperolactam B) five 4-5 dioxoaporphines etc. The essential oil of the fruit P. longum is a complex mixture, the three major components of which are (excluding the volatile piperine) caryophyllene and pentadecane (both about 17.8%) and bisaboline (11%). Others include thujine, terpinoline, zingiberine, pcymene, p-methoxy acetophenone and dihydrocarveol. Long pepper contains less essential oil than its relatives (about 1%), which consists of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons and ethers (bisabolene, β-caryophyllene, β-caryophyllene oxide, each 10 to 20%; α-zingiberene, 5%), and saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons such as 18% pentadecane, 7% tridecane, 6% heptadecane. The essential oil of the fruits showed fungicidal activity of P. longum L. The fruit-derived materials was tested towards six phytopathogenic fungi, Pyricularia oryzae, Rhizoctonia solani, Botrytis cineria, Phytophthora infestans, Puccinia recondita, and Erysiphe graminis using a whole plant in vivo method 42-44. A piperidine alkaloid, pipernonaline, was isolated from the hexane fraction of P.longum showed a potent fungicidal activity against P. recondita with 91% and 80% control values at the concentration of 0.5 and 0.25 mg ml−1.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)