Tudástár
It is the white, semi solid fat extracted from coconut kernels. Besides being an emollient, it lathers easily, so it is ideal use in baby soap, cleansers, shampoos, and shaving cream. Often blended with other fats, it is also popular in hair styling products, massage creams, ointments, pre-shave lotions and suncare.(ACD: it is an oil and does not lather at all, it saponified easily to produce a sodium or potassium cocoate soap that lathers with a rich, creamy foam). Coconut oil is the natural alternative to mineral oil and it is an excellent moisturiser, emollient, and protective to dry and scaly skin. Using coconut oil as a pre wash conditioner can help reduce or eliminate dandruff.
(CAS: 8001-31-8/EINECS: 232-282-8)
Improves the feel of hair and skin. For example, hair conditioners leave hair smooth, soft and static-free.
Benefits of conditioning agents
Conditioning agents offer a number of benefits for hair and skin, including:
Reduce frizz: Conditioning agents smooth the hair shaft and fill in gaps between the cuticles, which helps to reduce frizz and make the hair look more manageable.
Increase shine: Conditioning agents add a layer of lubrication to the hair shaft, which helps to reflect light and make the hair look shinier.
Improve detangling: Conditioning agents make the hair slippery and easier to comb, which can help to prevent breakage and split ends.
Protect from damage: Conditioning agents help to seal in moisture and protect the hair from environmental damage, such as heat styling, sun exposure, and chlorine.
Hydrate the skin: Conditioning agents can help to hydrate the skin and make it feel soft and supple.
Collagen is a natural protein found in the connective tissue of the skin (where it accounts for 70% of its content), as well as in the organs, muscles, bone and cartilage. In fact, there are more than 25 different types of collagen in our bodies. In the skin, it adds suppleness, plumpness, flexibility and spring, and, together with elastin, adds texture and structure. However, as skin ages or is exposed to sun damage, its collagen content is reduced, making skin progressively drier, thinner, flatter, less flexible and more wrinkle-prone. Since animal-derived and plant- derived pseudo-collagen also retains many times its own weight in water, these substitutes are used as conditioning, hydrating and suppleness-boosting ingredients in anti-aging products.
Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck
A cosmetic challenge test is a test that is conducted to determine the efficacy of the preservative system in a cosmetic product. The test is done by adding a known number of bacteria and fungi to the product and then measuring the growth of the microorganisms over time.
The purpose of a cosmetic challenge test is to ensure that the product is safe to use and that it will not spoil or become contaminated during its shelf life. The test is also used to verify the effectiveness of the preservative system and to make sure that it is compatible with the other ingredients in the product.
The cosmetic challenge test is conducted according to a standard method, such as ISO 11930.
The most effective and consistent means of establishing the efficacy of a preservation system is to subject the product to a microbial challenge test. There are many variations on this test but, in its most simple form, the methods prescribed by various pharmacopoeia are a good basis, e.g. United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) and Pharmacopoeia Europa (Ph. Eur.). In the Ph. Eur. method, the product is inoculated with cultures of organisms representative of the four main subgroups of likely contaminants:
- Gram-negative bacteria – Pseudomonas aeruginosa
- Gram-positive bacteria – Staphylococcus aureus
- Yeasts – Candida albicans
- Moulds – Aspergillus brasiliensis
These cultures are inoculated in separate samples, and then checked for surviving colonies at specified time points. There are different criteria for success for bacteria than for fungi; both are measured on the degree of logarithmic reduction in colony numbers. In order to pass the criteria for bacteria, the colony count must be reduced by at least log 2 within 2 days, and by at least log 3 within 7 days, with no increase in numbers thereafter (being tested also after 14 and 28 days). In order to pass the criteria for fungi, the colony count must be reduced by at least log 2 within 7 days, with no increase thereafter, again, up to 28 days.
The criteria described here, from the Ph. Eur., are the ‘A’ criteria. There are also ‘B’ criteria, which are less stringent and are applied only in situations where the possibility of microbial contamination is greatly reduced, usually due to packaging (e.g. single-use packs). The USP criteria include the Gram-negative bacterium Escherichia coli and are less stringent than those of the Ph. Eur., requiring only that there is no increase in the initial numbers of A. brasiliensis and C. albicans up to 28 days, and only a 1 log reduction of bacteria by 7 days; then a 3 log reduction by 14 days, with no increase at 28 days.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
Charcoal Powder is the dried, carbonaceous material obtained from the heating of organic substances. It is a high activity powder carbon for use in continuous and batch dosing water treatment systems. It is manufactured from specific grades of bituminous coal to produce a high quality powder carbon. It is proven in the removal of taste and odour from water by the adsorption of contaminants such as Methyl Isoborneol and Geosmin. It is particularly efficient in the removal of pesticides from water such as Atrazine and Simazine, plus other dissolved organic matter. It can be used in the treatment of drinking water, wastewater (both domestic and industrial) and where colour causing contaminants need to be removed from water. Wet carbon in enclosed filters can deplete oxygen. No adverse effect is expected when applied to the skin, but there is no data to evaluate any effects.
(CAS: 8021-96-6/EINECS: not found)
Chelating agents such as phytic acid extracted from rice bran could be added to enhance the activity of the natural preservative. There are a number of suppliers for this material. Another option is to use a naturally produced material such as sodium gluconate. Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid, produced by the fermentation of glucose. It is a white crystalline powder, very soluble in water. Non-corrosive, nontoxic and readily biodegradable (98% after two days), sodium gluconate is an effective chelating agent especially in alkaline and concentrated alkaline solutions.
It forms stable chelates with calcium, iron, copper, aluminum and other heavy metals. It is as effective as other chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and related salts. Aqueous solutions of sodium gluconate are resistant to oxidation and reduction, even at high temperatures. However, it is easily degraded biologically (98% after two days) and thus presents no wastewater problem. It is used in the food industry.
Chelating agents interfere with the cellular membranes that surround all organisms and weaken them by depriving them of the trace elements that they need for cellular function. Extremely high levels of chelating agent have been used as preservatives on their own.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (pp. 83-84).
Skin ceramides are amides of sphingosine and ω-hydroxy fatty acids, with the hydroxyl group esterified with linoleic acid. They are colourless wax-like substances that are practically insoluble in water. They are usually available in powder form. They can be isolated from the above mentioned natural sources, but are mostly produced today by synthesis. Ceramides are the main intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and are crucial for the proper organisation of lipid lamellar phases. They are classified in the group of sphingolipids.
Source: Modern Cosmetics - Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač
Beeswax is a secretion of the abdominal glands of the honeybee. When freshly secreted, beeswax is white and colourless, but will acquire a colour primarily by the bee picking up and storing pollen and honey. For cosmetic purposes, yellow-grade beeswax is defined as cera flava and white-grade beeswax as cera alba. Beeswax has a relatively low melting point (61–65°C), is moderately hard, and somewhat sticky, plastic and kneadable at body temperature. It is one of the best oil-binding waxes known, therefore considerable amounts of beeswax are used in lipstick and lip balm preparations to produce creamy textures, favorable adhesion to the skin, and films that are well-received among consumers. The oil-gelling properties of beeswax are helpful for stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions for skin and hair applications and for texturizing effects. Beeswax is also used as a means of enhancing texture and adding volume in mascara and make-up.
Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters
An extract of the flowers of the ylang-ylang, cananga odorata, Annonaceae. Ylang-ylang is extremely effective in calming and bringing about a sense of relaxation. It is antispasmodic, balances equilibrium, said to help with sexual disabilities and frigidity and has been used traditionally to balance heart function. Ylang-ylang in the Malayan language means “flower of flowers”. The scent is very sensual, sweet and reminiscent of almonds. It is mentally relaxing and soothing. It is useful in treating insomnia, anger, anxiety and low-esteem. It is said to relax facial muscles and a massage with ylang-ylang helps to ease tension headaches.
(CAS: 83863-30-3/EINECS: 281-092-1)
Cellulose Gum is a modified cellulose polymer used in cosmetic products up to 10%. Most cellulose gums are naturally derived as an unwanted part of the wood pulp process to produce paper. Cellulose is the main constituent in plant fibre. Cotton, for example, is 90% cellulose. Used as a thickening agent and emulsifier, it is widely used in cosmetics, hair and skin care because it swells in water. The cellulose derivatives pass essentially unchanged through the gastrointestinal tract following oral administration. It is practically non toxic when administered by inhalation or by oral, intraperitoneal, subcutaneous, or dermal routes. The cellulose derivatives up to 100% were non irritating to mildly irritating, non sensitising, and non photosensitizing when evaluated in clinical studies. It is concluded that the ingredient reviewed is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration.
(CAS: 9004-32-4/EINECS: not found)
Chemical Abstracts Service Registry. A registry of unique numeric identifiers allocated to each substance. A CAS Registry Number (abbreviated CASN, CASRN or CAS#) can contain up to 10 digits, divided by hyphens into 3 parts. The first part of the number has up to 7 digits; the second part has 2 digits, and the final part consists of a single check digit used to verify by computer the validity and uniqueness of the entire number. The full CAS Registry can be searched from different online sources.
Source: https://ec.europa.eu/
As competition creates infinite choices, companies look for ways to connect emotionally with customers, become irreplaceable, and create lifelong relationships. A strong brand stands out in a densely crowded marketplace. People fall in love with brands, trust them, and believe in their superiority. How a brand is perceived affects its success, regardless of whether it's a start-up, a nonprofit, or a product.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Brand identity is tangible and appeals to the senses. You can see it, touch it, hear it, watch it move. Brand identity fuels recognition, amplifies differentiation, and makes big ideas and meaning accessible. Brand identity takes disparate elements and unifies them into whole systems.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Branding is a disciplined process used to build awareness and extend customer loyalty. It requires a mandate from the top and readiness to invest in the future. Branding is about seizing every opportunity to express why people should choose one brand over another. A desire to lead, outpace the competition, and give employees the best tools to reach customers are the reasons why companies leverage branding.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Effective brand strategy provides a central, unifying idea around which all behavior, actions and communications are aligned. It works across products and services, and is effective over time. The best brand strategies are so differentiated and powerful that they deflect the competition. They are easy to talk abou, whether you are CEO or an employee.
Brand strategy builds on a vision, is aligned with business strategy, emerges from a company's values and culture, and reflects an indeőth understanding of the customer's needs and perceptions. Brand strategy defines positioning, differentiation, the competitive advantage, and unique value proposition.
Brand strategy needs to resonate with all the stakeholders: external customers, the media, and internal customers. Brand strategy is a road map that guides marketing, makes it easier for the sales force to sell more, and provides clarity, content, and inspiration to employees.
Source: Designing Brand Identity - Alina Wheeler
Bisabolol
Alpha Bisabolol is the active component of German chamomile oil and is proven to be anti-inflammatory, soothing and healing. It is a very beneficial material that is well documented and proven for its efficacy in protecting and repairing the skin. It has been identified as a natural component of various plants. For example, it has been found in the essential oils of matricaria chamomilla (German Chamomile), Myoporum crassifolium Forst and Vanillosmopsis erythropappa Shultz-Bip. It is used for sensitive skin, sunburn, rubbing, chafing, mechanical scraping (e.g. shaving), soreness, nappy rash and after using chemicals on the skin (e.g. depilation).
(CAS: 515-69-5/EINECS: 208-205-9)
Is a stimulating ingredient that occurs naturally in coffee, cola, chocolate, guarana, kola nuts and tea. It is an alkaloid and distantly related to aminophylline, which is often incorporated into anti-cellulite treatments. Employed for its toning, energising effect, it aids the penetration of other ingredients, provides a draining action (making it effective against puffy eyes), reduces flakiness, dryness and damage, and enhances skin suppleness. It is therefore used in bath care, cleansers, eye creams and gels, make-up and shaving preparations. Caffeine is a bitter, white crystalline xanthine alkaloid that is a psychoactive stimulant drug. Caffeine is found in varying quantities in the beans, leaves and fruit of some plants, where it acts as a natural pesticide that paralyses and kills certain insects feeding on the plants. Caffeine is a central nervous system (CNS) stimulant, having the effect of temporarily warding off drowsiness and restoring alertness. It is also used topically as a skin stimulant and often employed in anticellulite products.
(CAS: 58-082/EINECS: 200-362-1)
A preservative that is found naturally in nature, usually in balsamic resins (such as Tolu Balsam). The form used in this product is ‘natural identical’, simply because the price of extraction from a natural resin is prohibitively expensive. CIR Expert Panel: Concentration or other limitation on use for safe with qualifications conclusion: safe for use in all cosmetic formulations up to 5%, safe for use in hair dyes up to 10%
Is also known as Vitamin B7, Vitamin B Factor, Vitamin H and Coenzyme R.
Found naturally in nuts, liver, soy beans, fish, it improves product texture, adds volume and gloss to hair, moisturises and smoothes the skin surface and even strengthens brittle nails. It is therefore used largely as a moisturiser and texturizer in skin care products and hair conditioners, although claims have also been made for healing properties and its suitability in acne treatments.Biotin is a water soluble vitamin used as a hair-conditioning agent and a skin-conditioning agent in many cosmetic products at concentrations ranging from 0,01% to 0,6%. Maximum safe concentration is 1%.
(CAS: 58-85-5/EINECS: 200-399-3)
Biodegradation is a natural chemical process in which materials are being transformed into natural substances such as water, carbon and biomass with the help of microorganisms. The process of biodegradation depends on the environmental conditions as well as on the materials or application itself. Consequently, the process and its outcome can vary considerably.
Biodegradability is linked to the structure of the polymer chain and does not depend on the origin of the raw materials.
Claims about biodegradability should always feature additional specifications about the timeframe and environment the material can biodegrade in as well as certificates or test results in order to avoid vague or misleading claims. There is currently no overarching standard to back up claims about biodegradability. (2023)
Behenyl Alcohol is a white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol is a clear liquid. Fatty alcohols are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes synthetic fatty alcohols including Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Myristyl Alcohol on its list of food additives permitted for direct addition to food as multipurpose food additives. Synthetic fatty alcohols are also permited as indirect food additives as adjuvants and production aids. The safety of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these fatty alcohols were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols and reaffirmed the above conclusion.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)
Bamboo Silica is one of the natural sources of plant silica. Lessonia has Bamboo 200, 500, 1000 and Bamboo 100. Bamboo Exfoliator is a solidified organic silica extracted from the nodes of specific bamboo stems, called tabasheer in the traditional Indian medicine. Bamboo 100 is especially ideal for microdermabrasion since it improves skin refinement and complexion clearness. Another exfoliant based on bamboo silica is available from Libiol. The bamboo exfoliant is obtained from the bamboo tabasheer stems collected in the form of an exudate that crystallizes at ambient temperature. The product is presented in the form of a very hard white mass. After crushing, one obtains a crystalline powder very rich in mineral salt. It is a source of silica (SiO2) since this particular variety of bamboo contains nearly 70% of it among the other minerals found. The bamboo exfoliant is particularly interesting for the manufacture of exfoliating creams or gels to remove the dead cells and debris from the skin surface. Bamboosilk from Naturactiva. Certain female bamboo contain a white secretion in their joints called tabasheer. It consists almost of pure hydrated silica and has been used in Indian phytotherapy for its remineralizing properties in treatment of arthritis, osteoporosis, and for strengthening hair and nails. Eastern medicinal tradition describes Tabasheer as alkaline, cold in nature and sweet in taste. It is considered as an aphrodisiac and tonic in China where it is called tian zhu huang. Bamboosilk imparts to powder formulations a variety of properties that include: a high sebum absorption capacity, a mattifying aspect and a silky smooth feel. It also helps to improve the ease of application and the spreadability for body lotions, absorbs excessive perspiration, reduces lipstick exudation, adds volume in mascaras and improves nail polish wear.
Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4)
D-Arginine is extensively used in studies on L-arginine/nitric oxide pathway as an inactive form of L-arginine, even in man.It has previously been reported that this D-amino acid appears to have pharmacological activity.Function: Antistatic/hair conditioning,masking, skin conditioning. (CAS: 74-79-3/EINECS: 200-811-1)
It is a potent antioxidant, in addition to its anti-enzymic properties, it may prevent melanin synthesis by suppressing inflammation and by inhibiting the auto-oxidation of dopa and dopaquinone. Studies shown to reduce the inflammatory response of skin, which has been exposed to sun. The absorption of Vitamin C through the skin was proved by the increase in vitamin C content of milk following an application of a 30% solution of ascorbic acid to the surface of the skin of the mammae.The safety of Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Panel reviewed the scientific data and concluded that Ascorbic Acid and its salts were safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products. (CAS: 50-81-7/EINECS: 200-066-2)
Is the peptide fraction isolated from the Oat, Avena Sativa L., Poaceae, Protein Extract by ultra membrane filtration. Concerns over possible allergic reactions to wheat or gluten make these oat peptides attractive alternatives for natural cosmetics, as the product is negative when tested for a typical gluten response.Have outstanding emulsifying properties and water binding capacity. They exhibit excellent foaming properties, making them a useful addition to shampoos, shower gels and other surfactant based products.The benefit of using these peptides in skin or hair products hinges on their ability to penetrate the cortex with only a single application. In hair care, claims such as repairing damaged hair and improving hair shine and silky feel could be supported by the inclusion of this material.(CAS: 84012-26-0/EINECS: 281-672-4)
Skin aging is largely due to the accumulation of oxidative damage, resulting from the insufficient bioavailability of antioxidants regarding the increased amount of ROS produced, by the mitochondrial aerobic metabolism or solar UV radiation.
Consequently, ROS accumulate and activate several signaling pathways, responsible for the reduction of collagen synthesis; production and activation of MMP and release of the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP).
Studies with Tel-E6E7 human stem cells suggested that ROS induced by UV radiation, promote MMP-1 activity in keratinocytes and fibroblasts of the dermis.
Thereby, to prevent oxidative stress, antioxidant peptides are used owing to their ability to transfer an electron or hydrogen atom to stabilize radicals, or to their capability to complex ions, such as copper, essential for the functioning of enzymes involved in the inflammation and aging process, inhibiting them. Moreover, antioxidant activity is still dependent on their molecular weight, as low molecular weight peptides have a greater ability to donate hydrogen or electrons; their hydrophobicity that improve the accessibility to hydrophobic cellular targets, e.g. biological membranes; and their amino acid sequence.
Hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptides results from the denaturation of collagen protein by enzymatic hydrolysis. In the cosmetic industry, hydrolyzed collagen is widely used, owing to their biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and very low toxicity when topically applied. Hydrolyzed collagen has been identified as a good moisturizer for the stratum corneum of the epidermis, though, as far as its anti-aging benefits, its mechanism of action is not fully identified.
The antioxidant activity of peptides is related to its molecular weight, thus smaller peptides up to 10 KDa (equivalent to 2 to 10 amino
acids) show higher antioxidant activity. To assess the relationship between the molecular weight of collagen hydrolysates from sheep skin (which is dependent on the time of hydrolysis of the collagen) and its antioxidant activity, L´eon-Lopez et al. conducted a study in which two free radicals were used: ABTS (suitable to evaluate hydrophilic and hydrophobic antioxidants) and DPPH. The results of the study showed that the highest radical scavenging activity was seen after 4 h of hydrolysis of the collagen protein, 67.6 % for ABTS and 52.75 % for DPPH. Thus, collagen hydrolysates of small size and composition in antioxidant amino acids e.g., glutamic acid (due to the high hydrolysis time), guarantee a considerable antioxidant activity, and may be valid options in combating skin aging caused by oxidative stress.
This plant is commonly known as Marshmallow, White Mallow or Althea and is listed in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as well as in most of the European Pharmacopoeias. It contains very high levels of mucilage (polysaccharide sugars), which make it emollient, demulcent and vulnerary (wound healing). It is used topically for the treatment of abscesses, boils, varicose and thrombotic ulcers. Marshmallow is the perfect choice for skin smoothing, soothing and for its anti-inflammatory properties. Used in soothing herbal compresses and in bath preparations for skin disorders and cuts and bruises.(CAS: 73049-65-7/EINECS: 277-254-6)