Within the fresh outer leaf, there are natural materials, which are of benefit to the skin, and these are carefully extracted to leave behind those materials, which would serve no useful purpose.The resulting extract has moisturising and skin soothing benefits.The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the safety of the ingredients derived from the Aloe barbadensis species of plant (which is commonly called Aloe Vera). These are the ingredients made from aloe plants that are most often used in cosmetics . The CIR Expert Panel concluded that they were safe for use in cosmetics. (CAS: 85507-69-3/EINECS: 287-390-8)

Anti-aging peptides are applied to the skin to obtain a local effect, acting on the factors that cause changes in the structure, appearance, functionality, and homeostasis of the skin. According to their mechanism of action, anti-aging peptides can be categorized as bioactive peptides, which act on the skin repair and renewal systems, stimulate collagen synthesis, cell proliferation, and reduce melanogenesis; antioxidant peptides, capable of eliminating ROS from the body and antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) that are involved in the maintenance of a healthy skin microbiome.
Despite its beneficial effects, these peptides are hydrophilic substances, thus may have difficulty crossing the epidermal barrier, so conjugation with fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, is frequently used to increase protection of the peptides against enzymatic action, and their lipophilic character improve delivery through the skin.
Anti-aging peptides are therefore appealing ingredients for the cosmetic industry because of their wide applicability and also owing to their higher safety profile.

Source: Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology - Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems

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Annatto, or norbixin, is extracted from the Bixa orellana or lipstick tree; it gives a yellow to deep orange color. The plant has entered into commercial cultivation for the production of this dye, which is used mainly in the food industry and for coloring dairy products such as butter and cheese, margarine and edible oils.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Formulating Natural Cosmetics (Dweck Books 1) (p. 208).

A material found quite widely in nature, especially in plants like comfrey. This material is also known as glyoxydiureide or 5-ureidohydantoin and its history is very interesting. During World War I it was observed that the wounds of soldiers in trenches appeared to heal more quickly than those kept under sanitary conditions. It was found that the trenches were infested with maggots which infested the wounds of many of the combatants and that the maggots secreted a material that improved healing. This material was found to be allantoin.It also occurs in tobacco seeds, sugar beet, wheat sprouts and comfrey (0,8%) as well as in rice polishings and in the bark of horse chestnut. Allantoin is a topical vulnerary and is a skin ulcer therapy. In skin care products it is used to help clear up skin blemishes and other skin irregularities.(CAS: 97-59-6/EINECS: 202-592-8)

Historically the seeds and bark of horse chestnut used for the treatment of piles (haemorrhoids) and as an external application to slow healing ulcers. In addition , the plant contains a material called aescin, which is very useful for the treatment of oedema, varicose veins and the swelling in bruises. There is good evidence to show that it helps remove the dark circle under eyes. Uses are listed as astringent, expectorant, treatment of leg ulcers, varicose veins, haemorrhoids, tonic, ‘anticouperose’(CAS: 8053-39-2/EINECS:232-497-7)

Are fruit acids that produce a mild exfoliating effect on the skin. In ordinary over-the-counter beauty products, they are extremely diluted (usually between 2% and 10%)in order to gently slough off superficial dead skin cells and reveal brighter, newer, more refined skin underneath. This has the added effect of increasing cell turnover for a slightly rejuvenating effect. The acids used are usually glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk and tomato juice), citric acid (from citrus fruits such as lemon and orange), malic acid (from apples), or tartaric acid (from grapes). Used moderately in, say, one product per day, they help refresh the skin surface, improve hydration, reduce fine lines and discoloration, and even improve dermal thickness for a plumper, younger appearance. When used in too many products at once (for example, in cleanser, toner, day cream, night cream) their concentrated effects can cause irritation and redness. The medical version of the chemical peel produces a controlled burn that peels away the outer skin layers, revealing newer, smoother, tighter skin underneath and thereby reducing fine lines, wrinkles, roughness, discoloration and acne scarring. Healing may take up to two-three weeks.

Synonyms of age spots include sun spots, solar lentigines, senile lentigines, and liver spots. Age spots are prevalent in low-grade phototype, thought to affect more than 90% of whites older than 60 years, and is linked strongly to sun exposure and age. They are presented as yellow–light brown to black macules on surfaces of the skin exposed to the sun (face, upper back, forearms, dorsum of the hands). Histologically, age spots are characterized by the presence of elongated epidermal rete ridges with heavy pigmentation in the basal layer. Electron microscopy revealed an increase in the number of active melanocytes and number and size of the melanosomal complexes in keratinocytes. Some have reported the presence of giant melanosomal complexes in melanocytes. Keratinocyte defects can be expected because an “age spot” persists even with differentiation, thus indicating that the progeny of keratinocytes persists in perpetuation of the “age spot.” A keratinocyte memory can be postulated. Basement membrane defects are possible with diffusion of melanin into the dermis or transgression of melanin-bearing keratinocytes into the dermis. Treatment options include hydroquinone (2–4%), tretinoin (0.05–0.1%), tazarotene (0.1%), adapalene (0.1–0.3%), azealic acid, and kojic acid. Laser treatment and intense pulsed light treatment have also shown to be effective.

Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic development - Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts

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Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Monkey Bread Tree or the Baobab, Adansonia Digitata L., Bombacaceae. Baobab oil (Mbuyu in Swahili) is derived from the seeds of the baobab tree, a tree that is native to Eastern and Southern Africa. Baobab oil has been part of African skin care for centuries. This rich, golden oil has a sligtly nutty smell. It has a high content of vitamins A, D, E and F (essential fatty acids). Baobab oil is said to provide impressive moisturizing benefits to the skin and hair. It absorbs quickly, improves elasticity, encourages regeneration of skin cells and does not clog the pores.

Saponification value: 205.
Iodine value: 80.
Average carbon number: 17.379.

Traditional use: An African tree steeped in mystery, legend and religious significance. The fruit provides an exquisite oil that is a rich and substantive moisturizer. The traditional method of oil extraction is by pounding the seeds. The oil thus produced is used as a rub to relieve aches, pains and rheumatism, but more especially, to treat skin complaints such as eczema and psoriasis. Baobab oil is extremely stable against rancidity. No adverse effects are reported or expected from the topical application to the skin.

(CAS: 91745-12-9; EINECS: 294-680-8)

Function: Emollient / hair conditioning / skin conditioning.

The actual or estimated LD₅₀ value: 5,000 mg/kg body weight. AICS status (NICNAS Australia): Number and description not found.

Source: Handbook Of Natural Ingredients - Anthony C. Dweck

It is a flowering herb from the Asteraceae family and also known as paracress or toothache plant because of its analgesic benefits. Its neuro blocking, numbing properties are believed to inhibit involuntary micro-contractions involved in facial muscle movements, providing a rapid botox-style, wrinkle-reducing, smoothing action.the anti ageing properties of an Acmella oleracea extract have been demonstrated and can be attributed principally to a mechanism of myorelaxation, which treats the causes of fine line formation. The results on the skin are an immediate smoothing effect with significant reduction of wrinkles. (CAS: 90131-24-1/EINECS: 290-335-0)

Accelerated tests, developed because of the relatively short development cycle for cosmetic products, enable the prediction of stability. A commonly accepted practice is to support the forecasts obtained from accelerated stability testing by carrying out periodic post-launch monitoring of retained samples stored at ambient temperatures. The resultant information can also be useful in further improving the product and in refining the methodology used for accelerated stability testing.

Source: Guidelines on stability testing of cosmetic products - Colipa

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