What is INCI?

INCI names (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) are systematic names internationally recognized to identify cosmetic ingredients. They are developed by the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) and published by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, available electronically as wINCI.

Oversight for the INCI program is provided by PCPC as part of its mission to support the identification of the composition of personal care products, and publication of this information in a worldwide science-based Dictionary. PCPC is committed to ensuring that the Dictionary provides the world community with accurate, transparent, and harmonized nomenclature. By working closely with its international sister trade associations, and with other organizations around the world, PCPC strives to develop INCI names that accommodate differing labeling approaches described in national laws and regulations.

Why INCI?

There are many benefits to a uniform system of labeling names for cosmetic ingredients. Dermatologists and others in the medical community are ensured an orderly dissemination of scientific information, which helps to identify agents responsible for adverse reactions. Scientists are ensured that information from scientific and other technical publications will be referenced by a uniform name; and that multiple names for the same material will not lead to confusion, misidentification, or the loss of essential information. It also enables the cosmetic industry to track the safety and the regulatory status of ingredients efficiently on a global basis, enhancing its ability to market safe products in compliance with various national regulations. And finally, transparency is provided to consumers as ingredients are identified by a single labeling name regardless of the national origin of the product.

What INCI is not?

The designation of an INCI name for a cosmetic ingredient is an essential part of ingredient identification; however, just because an ingredient has an INCI name does not mean that the ingredient has been approved for cosmetics. The assignment of an INCI name to an ingredient also does not imply that the ingredient is safe, or that its use in a cosmetic product complies with the laws and regulations of the United States or other global regions. The safety and fitness of use for an ingredient, along with regulatory considerations, is carefully evaluated by the manufacturer as part of the development process before the product is marketed.

Source: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/

A humectant is a substance that attracts water. Typically used for moisturizing and conditioning hair and skin. It is also used to improve stability of formulas exposed to air. They are used in many products, including food, cosmetics, medicines, and pesticides. When used as a food additive, a humectant has the effect of keeping moisture in the food.

In cosmetics, humectants are used to hydrate the skin, hair, or nails. Some common humectants include:

• Glycerin
• Hyaluronic acid
• Sorbitol
• Lactic acid
• Urea
• Propylene glycol
• Butylene glycol

The CTFA dictionary defines humectants as ‘‘cosmetic ingredients intended to increase the water content of top layers of the skin’’. Humectants are hygroscopic substances generally soluble in water. These ‘‘moisture attractants’’ maintain an aqueous film at the skin surface. The primary used humectant in personal-care products is glycerin; it tends to provide heavy and tacky feel which can be overcome by using it in combination with
other humectants such as sorbitol.
Less expensive than glycerin, propylene glycol is the second most widely used humectant in cosmetic and toiletry products; it reduces viscosity of surfactant solutions and tends to depress the foam.

Low–molecular weight polyethylene glycol (PEGs from about 10 to 200 PEG units), amino acids and other constituents of skin natural moisturizing factors like sodium PCA and sodium lactate are also applicable for use in surfactant-based skin-cleansing products.

Humectants are not substantive to the skin and are easily rinsed-off after cleaning. Consequently, skin-feel improvement is not obvious to perceive and their efficacy in terms of skin moisturization is difficult to document. Glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, or sorbitol are typically used in body washes, bubble baths, shower gels, or soaps to prevent the dessication of the product itself and the formation of a dry layer at the surface. They also ensure stability and clarity of liquid cleansers at cold temperatures. Few substantive humectants can be mentioned. They are cationic in nature, which makes them absorbing to the negatively charged skin surface. In the quaternized polyalkoxylated methyl glucose derivative (lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride), the hydrophilic moiety delivers humectant properties; the hydrophobic chain at the cationic end of the molecule ensures both substantivity and skin conditioning.

Chitosan-PCA is another example. Chitosan is a polycationic (at acidic pH) high–molecular weight polymer produced by deacetylation of chitin, the major constituent of
invertebrate exoskeletons. Combining chitosan with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) leads to a highly substantive, film-forming humectant material.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

Hot stamping is a lithography printing process that uses heated image molds or stamping dies to transfer metal foils or pre-dried inks onto a surface.

The hot stamping machine heats an engraved mold or die, which then presses marking foil onto the surface. The foil is deposited only where the hot stamp comes in contact with the product material, allowing engineers to create elegant, embossed designs on parts and assemblies in post-production. Hot stamping foils have three layers: a color layer (which can be pigment or metallic), an adherence base, and a release layer. Innovations in digital printing even enable hot stamping three-dimensional images with holographic foil.

Hot stamping is a versatile, precise, and efficient method for printing on surfaces, and is often used to personalize or decorate products.

Source: https://sybridge.com/

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Hydrogels are hydrophilic, consisting mainly (85–95%) of water or an aqueous-alcoholic mixture and the gelling agent. The latter is usually an organic polymeric compound such as polyacrylic acid (Carbopol), sodium carboxy methylcellulose, or nonionic cellulose-ethers. Hydrogels have to be preserved against microbial growth.
After application, hydrogels show a cooling effect caused by evaporation of the solvent. They are easily applicable and humidify instantaneously, but if applied over a long time they desiccate the skin. For that reason, humectants such as glycerol may be added. After evaporation, the polymer residue may cause a sticky or ‘‘tearing’’ feel on the skin if inappropriate thickening agents have been used. Careful selection and testing of the needed adjuvants is therefore recommended.

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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The wax obtained from sunflower oil forms hard and very homogeneous thermally stable oil gels and is therefore excellent for light-coloured, practically odorless and tasteless lip balms, lipsticks and other oil gels. Chemically it has a long chain (about C60) wax ester mainly from monovalent alcohols and acids. Sunflower wax has a melting point of about 80°C and a narrow melting curve with no molten contents below 55°C. Consequently the oil gels are very heat resistant.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

HDPE is a non-transparent plastic resin that is also widely used in cosmetic packaging of bottles of shampoo, conditioner, lotion and sunscreen. It can be white, coloured or pearlescent by adding pigments and pearl.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

Glycerin or glycerol is one of the oldest and most respected skin moisturisers. It has been proven in many trials (both clinicals and instrumentals) to increase the moisture content of the skin and protect it from becoming dry and scaly. Glycerin is listed in all of the major pharmacopoeias and is used extensively for the treatment of the skin. 

(CAS: 56-81-5/EINECS: 200-289-5)

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A simple but effective natural edible oil, the Chinese have been growing soya for more than 4,000 years. Soya oil is light, odourless and contains a valuable source of nutritious fatty acids, and is a versatile emollient and skin moisturiser. This plant has been known and used by the Chinese for more than 4,000 years, though today most of the oil comes from the USA. This oil is a cost-effective base on which to prepare hair and body products where good honest moisturisation is required at a budget price. Soybean is listed as a major starting material for stigmasterol, once known as an anti stiffness factor. Sitosterol, also a soy byproduct, has been used to replace diosgenin in some antihypertensive drugs.

(CAS: 8001-22-7/EINECS: 232-274-4)

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In the old English Leechbook of Bald it was recommended to boil tender ivy twigs in butter and apply the results to ease sunburn. Culpeper recommended the leaves for ulcers, boils and ulcers. Today, the leaves are sometimes used by herbalists to treat slow healing wounds, abscesses and burns. The plant contains a component called hederagenin, which at high plant concentrations is effective in treating cellulitis and oedema.

Function: Anticaking, antimicrobial, astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, tonic.

(CAS: 84082-54-2/EINECS: 282-000-2)

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The sunflower originally came from Peru in the 16th century, where a number of varieties grow in the wild. It was a plant highly prized by the people, who adorn their temples with sunflowers made of pure gold. A substantive oil produced from sunflower seeds. It is pure enough to eat. It contains a rich blend of glycerides and fatty acids, which will moisturise and protect the skin.

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The act of misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a products or service.

Source: TerraChoice Group Inc, 2009

Ginkgo leaves and cooked nuts have a safe history of use that goes back several thousands years. When using a preparation of the whole leaves or seeds, it can be safely assumed that within a normal dose range there will be no danger or negative effect.

Has many names, like Elephant’s Ear tree, Fan Leaf tree, Japanese Temple tree and Duck foot tree, but perhaps the prettiest is the maiden Hair tree. It is the leaves of the tree that are used medicinally for their positive effect on the blood circulation as vasodilators. In this respect the plant has been used for the treatment of chilblains. Internally, the plant improves an ageing memory and improves concentration.The extract has free-radical scavenging properties and is therefore a protectant in “anti ageing” skin care products.

(CAS: 90045-36-6/EINECS: 289-896-4)

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Gluconolactone, also called glucono delta-lactone, is an ester of Gluconic Acid. Pure gluconolactone, is an ester of Glucanic Acid. Gluconolactone is formed by the removal of water from Gluconic Acid. Gluconic Acid is a carboxylic acid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Gluconic Acid and its derivatives may be used in the formulation of mouthwashes, bath products, cleansing products, skin care products and shampoo.

(CAS: 90-80-26/EINECS: 202-016-5)

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Gels are dispersed systems, originally liquids (solutions) that have a certain consistency useful and practical for topical application. In contrast to emulsions, gels generally do not comprise two immiscible phases of opposite lyophilicity. Therefore, the polarity and solubility characteristics of the incorporated substances are either hydrophilic—in hydrogels—or lipophilic—in lipogels (or oleogels). The consistency of gels is caused by gelling (thickening) agents, usually polymers, building a three dimensional network. Intermolecular forces bind the solvent molecules to the polymeric network, and thus the reduced mobility of these molecules results in a structured system with increased viscosity.

Pure gels are transparent and clear or at least opalescent. Transparency is only achieved if all ingredients are dissolved or occur at least in colloidal form, i.e., the size of particles is in the submicron range. Transparency in particular is an attractive property of gels. Gel products have positive aesthetic characteristics and are thus becoming more and more popular in cosmetic care products today. Gels can also serve as the basis for more complex formulations:

• Solid particles can be incorporated, resulting in stabilized suspensions
• Incorporation of oily lipids results in so-called hydrolipid dispersions or quasiemulsions

Source: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology - André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach

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Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract is an extract of the fruit of the Gamboge Tree, Garcinia cambogia, Guttiferae. Garcinia Cambogia (Malabar Tamarind) is a small fruit that has some traditional usage to enhance the culinary experience of a meal, but beyond that has limited medicinal usage. It is a very good source of hydroxycitric acids (structurally related to citric acid, a sour flavorant) and one of the isomers, known as (-)-Hydroxycitric acid, is thought to help in weight control. Several studies have shown that Garcinia cambogia plays an important role in the regulation of endogenous lipid biosynthesis. This effect is specially attributed to (-)-hydroxycitric acid (HCA) inhibiting the enzyme ATP-dependent citrate lyase, which catalyzes the cleavage of citrate to oxaloacetate and acetyl-CoA. Studies conducted in experimental animals have not reported increased mortality or significant toxicity. Furthermore, at the doses usually administered, no differences have been reported in terms of side effects or adverse events (those studied) in humans between individuals treated with G. cambogia and controls.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients: - their use, safety and toxicology (Dweck Books 5)

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Ginkgo biloba. Traditional use: Long revered in traditional Chinese herbal medicine, ginkgo is now known to have important implications in the treatment of age-related disorders and circulatory problems. The Council of Europe lists the following cosmetic effects attributed to ginkgo biloba extracts: tonic, stimulant and vasodilator. Folklore: The ginkgo species was almost destroyed during the Ice Age but survived in China, where it was cultivated as a sacred tree, with the exception of the Maidenhair tree, the plants of this order are found only as fossils. Individual trees may live as long as 1000 years.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Geraniol is a sweet, rose-like fragrancing agent found in fruits such as apples, cherries and grapefruit, as well as in bay leaves, citronella oil, ginger, lavender and essential oils of geranium and lemon. It can also be produced synthetically. It is used in both perfumes and after-shaves (especially in combination with attar of roses and orange blossom oil), as well as bath and body care, depilatories, hair care, lipsticks and suncare. It is one of the declared allergens found in those essential oils. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Geraniol on its lists of flavoring substance considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). The safety of Geraniol has been evaluated by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Expert Panel (REXPAN). Based on this evaluation, an International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard has been established. The IFRA Standard restricts the use of Geraniol in fragrances because of potential sensitization. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) defers review of individual fragrance ingredients to the IFRA program unless the ingredient has significant uses other than as a fragrance.

Source: Dweck, Anthony. Handbook of Natural Ingredients (Dweck Books 4) . Dweck Data.

Cosmetic formulation refers to the process of creating a specific combination of ingredients to develop a cosmetic product, such as skincare, makeup, haircare, or personal care items. This process involves selecting and blending various raw materials, including chemicals, natural extracts, oils, and additives, to create a final product with the desired appearance, texture, scent, and functional benefits.

“Flava” means yellow in Greek and the collective name of flavonoids for this group of compounds was proposed by Geissman in 1952.

This is a very large group of compounds showing extraordinary diversity and variation and as the Greek root for the word suggests, many of these compounds are yellow in color. They consist of a number of structurally related groups of products, which are often identified as polyphenols. Many have a basic skeleton that contains 15 carbon atoms, which are usually subdivided into one part made up from a phenolic moiety and another which has a cinnamic acid molecule as a building block.

The group called the chalcones may be considered as the Friedel-Crafts reaction product of a (substituted) cinnamic acid and a phenol. The flavonoids in red wine (Vitis vinifera) such as quercetin, kaempferol, and anthocyanidins account for the free radical–scavenging activity.

In green tea (Camellia sinensis or Thea viridis), it is the catechins and catechin gallate esters that are shown to be effective antioxidants against free radicals. The dietary effectiveness of these materials has been known for generations and similar antioxidant effectiveness has been shown to occur when these materials are topically applied to protect skin cells.

Flavonoids also are a source of natural color, with yellows from the chalcones and flavonols, and reds, blues, and violets from the anthocyanidins. The flavones are colorless, but are still able to absorb UV strongly and so act as a beacon to pollinating insects. The exploitation of these molecules as a source of natural color in cosmetics and toiletries is just beginning, but their poor light stability is often a stumbling block. Flavonoids may be found as their glycosides. These are molecules that are substituted on one or more of the hydroxyl groups with a sugar such as galactose, glucose, mannose, or rhamnose, etc. The aglycons do not carry a sugar moiety.

Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic development - Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts

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This bar chart provides schedule information where activities are listed on the vertical axis, dates are shown on the horizontal axis, and activity durations are shown as horizontal bars placed according to start and finish dates.

The Standard For Project Management And A Guide To The Project Management Body Of Knowledge (Pmbok® Guide) Seventh Edition

Ferulic Acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is a natural UV-absorber (maximum absorbance between 300 and 320 nm) derived and extracted from rice bran. Ferulic acid is available as an odourless and pale yellow crystalline powder. It is also a powerful antioxidant. Ferulic acid, unlike p-cinnamic acid and caffeic acid, scavenges superoxide anion radicals and also inhibits lipid peroxidation induced by superoxides. In 1886 Hlasiwetz and Barth in Innsbruck, Austria isolated a dibasic acid from Ferula foetida and named this compound ferulic acid. Five years later, it was isolated again from Pinus laricio Poir by Bamberger. It is now often extracted from rice bran (Oryza sativa).

(CAS: 1135-24-6/EINECS: 214-490-0)

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The world turned its attention to fenugreek (T foenum graecum) for its source of diosgenin.
Fenugreek or foenugreek seeds are emollient and accelerate the healing of suppurations and inflammations.
Externally cooked with water into a porridge and used as hot compresses on boils and abscesses in a similar manner to the use of linseed.
Decoctions of whole plant are used as a bath for uterus infections. The seeds are tonic, restorative, aphrodisiac, and galactagogue. Their emollient properties are useful for the itch. A cataplasm obtained by boiling the flour of the seeds with vinegar and saltpeter is used for swelling of the spleen.
Extracts of the seeds are incorporated into several cosmetics claimed to have effect on premature hair loss, and as a skin cleanser, and it is also reported in Java in hair tonics and to cure baldness. Many of the herbal materials found to have
an effect on hair growth have a hormonal or hormonalmimetic basis.

Likewise, there are a number of references to fenugreek having galactagogue (increase milk in nursing mothers) activity, which again is indicative of an estrogen-like
activity. The plant should be used with caution as fenugreek is reputed to be oxytocic and in vitro uterine stimulant activity has been documented, so the use of fenugreek during pregnancy and lactation in doses greatly exceeding those normally encountered in foods is not advisable.

Source: The internal and external use of medicinal plants - Anthony C. Dweck, FLS, FRSC, FRSH

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The simplest treatment of dry skin conditions is with fixed vegetable oils. Many of these vegetable, nut, seed, and kernel oils are simple blends of fatty acids with varying
carbon chain lengths. Coconut, sunflower, safflower, rapeseed, corn, or sesame seed oil will give perfectly acceptable skin coverage and are most often used as carrier oils for essential oils. These oils will coat the skin to occlude and protect it by slowing down transepidermal water loss and so increasing hydration within the stratum corneum and top layers of the dermis. They will also “glue down” dry and desquamatous skin cells to make the skin look less rough and scaly. Some oils such as castor seed oil (Ricinus communis) are renowned not only for their very high gloss (and so a frequent component in lipsticks and lip salves), but also for their high degree of occlusiveness which makes them ideal for skin protection, for example, diaper or nappy rash creams, where the most traditional and best-known example would be zinc and castor oil cream.

Other oils such as evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis), borage (starflower) seed oil (Borago officinalis), and blackcurrant seed oil (Ribes nigrum) are particularly useful because of their high γ-linolenic acid content. Evening primrose used to hold a pharmaceutical license for use on atopic dermatitis, but subsequently lost this status on the publication of further clinical trial data. It is still widely taken orally for mastitis (breast pain).

A new oil, made commercially available in 2006, is inchi oil (Plukentia volubilis), which also has the name Aztec peanut - although it is totally unrelated to the peanut (Arachis hypogaea). This oil is abundant in omega-3, omega-6, and omega-12 fatty acids, and could well show huge promise in skin care. Another plant that is rich in γ-linolenic acid is a particular species of rose hip seed oil (Rosa aff. rubiginosa) that is collected in the foothills of the Chilean Andes and often called Rosa moschata.

This oil is reputed to contain vitamin A according to some references. A large body of evidence (mainly anecdotal clinical) suggests that this oil has exceptional cicatrizing properties and is an excellent oil for restoring skin elasticity especially for postsurgical conditions where tightness has become a problem for the patient. It was also shown to be effective for treating the hyperpigmentation of certain scar tissues.

Source: Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmeticdevelopment - Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts

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FDA stands for US Food and Drug Administration. Cosmetics are regulated under FDA. The Food and Drug Administration is responsible for protecting the public health by ensuring the safety, efficacy, and security of cosmetics.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Has Broad Authority to Regulate Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

Strong federal safety requirements govern cosmetics and personal care products sold in the U.S. It is a crime to market unsafe cosmetics products. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U. S. Attorney General (AG) can take action against any company that markets an unsafe cosmetics product. The law provides severe penalties, including seizures, recalls, fines and bans, for cosmetics and personal care products manufacturers that do not meet these strict requirements.

DID YOU KNOW: All cosmetics and personal care products manufacturers are required by federal law to substantiate the safety of their finished products and ingredients.

The FDA has wide-ranging regulatory authority that helps to ensure the safety of cosmetics and personal care products. In the past, the FDA has infrequently had to exercise this power to limit or prohibit ingredients that it considered to be unsafe. Cosmetics and personal care products companies are committed to upholding strict FDA regulations.

The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) of 1938 and the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 requires that every cosmetics product and its individual ingredients be substantiated for safety and that product labeling be truthful and not misleading. Cosmetics manufacturers are responsible for ensuring that products comply with the law before they are marketed. This process includes analyzing a cosmetic ingredient’s testing and safety data. If the manufacturer is unable to substantiate the safety of a product, the law requires the product to carry a conspicuous warning stating that its safety has not been substantiated.

The law provides severe penalties for products that do not meet these standards. Specifically, the law gives the FDA authority to:

• Ban or restrict cosmetics ingredients for safety reasons
• Mandate warning labels
• Inspect manufacturing facilities and records
• Issue warning letters
• Seize unsafe or misbranded products
• Prohibit unlawful activities
• Prosecute and jail violators
• Mandate product recalls
• Collect samples for examination and analysis as part of cosmetics plant inspections, import inspections and follow up to complaints of adverse reactions
• Conduct research on cosmetics and personal care products and ingredients to address safety concerns
• In addition to the FD&C Act and MoCRA, the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act authorizes the FDA to require ingredient labeling of cosmetics and personal care products sold to consumers. Detailed FDA regulations govern where and how ingredients must be listed on the package.

Cosmetics’ continued safety is ensured by the FDA’s regulatory program, as well as additional safety measures undertaken by the cosmetics and personal care products industry and the decades of safe use by consumers who trust and enjoy them every day.

Source: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/

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Extrusion Blow Moulding is the process of manufacturing plastic bottles by melting plastic resin and extruding a tube which is them clamped inside two halves of a water-cooled mould.

This tube of plastic is then inflated using pressurized air to the shape of the cavity. While inside, the plastic will freeze off to the shape as it is forced against the inside. The mould will then open, releasing the bottle so that the process can be repeated.

One of the many benefits of the extrusion blow moulding process is the flexibility to change the necks without having to change the entire mould. This customizable solution enables customers to use differing neck fitments on the same bottle mould, eliminating the need for a completely new mould each time, which can prove more cost effective.

What are the advantages of this process?

Extrusion blow moulding is a highly versatile process that can provide unique shapes, sizes and neck types, using a variety of plastics. This versatility gives an overwhelming advantage over the bottle manufacturing processes.

One of the most common resins used in blow moulding is HDPE (high density polyethylene). Although opaque in its natural state, a high gloss feel and appearance can be achieved too.

For a squeezable feel, MDPE (medium density polyethylene) can be used for products such as creams and lotions.

Key advantages:

• Offers good resistance to alcohol, acids and alkalis
• Produces bottles with high stiffness
• Allows forn interchangeable neck moulds
• Easily recycled
• Can be moulded to produce complex shapes and sharp contours

Açai is a 15 to 25 m tall palm of the Amazon rainforest. Açai fruit is one of the most important export products of the Brazilian food industry. The global trade of açai fruit began flourishing around 2000, although it has been used traditionally for centuries in diet, medicine and cosmetics.
Botanical characteristics: leaves pinnate, up to 3 m long; inflorescence dense, racemose, flowers brown or red, pentamerous; fruits botanically termed drupes, round, up to 2 cm in diameter, in bunches of 700 to 900, exocarp thin, dark red or dark blue to almost black, mesocarp fleshy, thin (approximately 1 mm), endocarp hard, 1 cm in diameter, with 1 seed.

Açai pericarp contains 25 to 50% oil. Approximately 50% of fatty acids in triglycerides are represented by oleic acid followed by palmitic and linoleic acids in descending order. The content of palmitic acid is high for a vegetable oil. Characteristic is the presence of palmitoleic acid, which is only rarely found in vegetable oils. Açai oil is also rich in phenols, particularly phenol acids (i.e. ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, syringic and vanillic acids) and procyanidin dimers and trimers, which increase the oil’s oxidative stability. It is therefore considered stable against oxidation. Açai oil has a dark-green colour, a distinctive sweetish odour reminiscent of the fruit pulp and is slightly more viscous than a typical vegetable oil.

In terms of its chemical composition, açai oil is considered a unique vegetable oil, and no suitable substitute among other vegetable oils exists. Given its content of palmitoleic acid, açai oil belongs to a special group of vegetable oils, together with avocado, Chilean hazel, macadamia and sea buckthorn oils.

Mechanism of action and use

Açai oil is usually found in cosmetic products for the care of mature skin, as it is supposed to have antioxidative, regenerative and anti-ageing properties expressed by phenols, phytosterols and linoleic acid. Due to its high content of palmitic acid, it is considered a substitute for vegetable butters, however, it gives a more pleasant, lighter, non-oily feeling on the skin. In vitro studies have proven its antioxidative activity to be higher than the antioxidative activity of olive oil. The amount of açai oil in a cosmetic product must be carefully planned, as it may leave a strong colouration. In addition, some caution is advised in terms of the long-term daily use due to the high
content of oleic acid in açai oil, which may negatively affect the skin’s barrier function.

Source: Modern Cosmetics - Dr. Damjan Janeš and Dr. Nina Kočevar Glavač

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Candelilla wax is a secretion of wild Euphorbia cerifera, which is native to the northern Mexican desert. The wax is obtained from the above ground parts of the plant. The plant is dried, boiled in water and the wax is then skimmed off by decanting. Crude candelilla wax is dark brown and then refined to a pale yellow wax. Candelilla wax is remarkably hard but exhibits low crystallinity and a degree of tackiness at higher temperatures. Its melting point of about 72°C lies between that of beeswax and carnauba wax. The resin and sitosterol it contains combine with esters to give candelilla wax its excellent capacity for binding ester oils. It provides high surface gloss when applied in lipsticks and exhibits satisfactory contraction properties – important for demolding lipsticks.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters

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Esters are the product of the reaction of any acid (usually organic) and alcohol. Common fatty acids are caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and behenic acids, and dicarboxilic acids such as adipic acid. Common alcohols are isopropyl, n-butyl, ethylhexyl, myristyl or oleyl alcohol, as well as polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, polyglycerol, propylene glycol and glycerol. A wide range of combinations can be used to produce the large range of synthetic esters available to the cosmetic industry.

Source: Cosmetic Formulation Principles and Practice - Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters